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  1. Mike576

    “Power hone” DIY

    Thought I would share this DIY (of sorts) power hone. The work surface is 3d printed and at the correct 1/2 inch height for Lindsay templates. The 1 inch wide wheel and fixture in the front is used to grind a small flat on round carbide blanks so the graver can be indexed in the Lindsay...
  2. Mike576

    question about silhouette background.

    If it were me I would cut it deep and flat then stipple, with time and use anything will wear however if the paint or ink wears a new coat can easily be applied Since most likely the metal itself isnt worn just the ink is rubbed off the slightly higher points. I use Speedball block printing ink...
  3. Mike576

    Any Beginner Practice Drawings I Can Print?

    Any regular paper will work, at one point I was using heavy weight card stock when I ran out of normal paper, took a bit more acetone to wet the paper but the transfers were still great.
  4. Mike576

    the old puma

    I wasn’t aware there was a CD of his work. I have his book which was great to learn from but I wish the photos were closer up. Still have never seen a bulino engraving in person! Other than my own that is.
  5. Mike576

    the old puma

    By magic pencil do you mean the Apple Pencil? Yes it’s much better to draw with the pencil vs your finger
  6. Mike576

    the old puma

    Biggest thing I think you can work on at this point is scale down the size of your cuts. Think of it like the pixel resolution on a photo. A camera with a higher resolution will have smaller more closely spaced pixels. Your cuts should be tiny tiny tiny. If an area needs to be dark like the...
  7. Mike576

    the old puma

    Yes for the most part I just use dots of varying depths and sizes. The darker an area needs to be the closer and deeper the dots. Hopefully these photos help. For a graver I use a 90 degree with no heel but recently switched to 70 degree with no heel. I need to clean up the whiskers a bit but...
  8. Mike576

    the old puma

    I’ll make sure to upload when I’m done I’m about 75% done with just the head at the moment. Maybe 20% overall, lots of dark areas will take a while!
  9. Mike576

    the old puma

    What do you think would be the challenge for you about the tracing? I find this to be a pretty simple step. Drag your photo in, size it to the canvas, make it lighter opacity, then trace a few key areas to follow later. Nice thing about procreate is you can adjust the stabilization of the pen...
  10. Mike576

    the old puma

    I have the iPad Pro 12.9 gen 5 you don’t need such a powerful iPad to use procreate though. The nicer the iPad the more layers you can add to a drawing based on the amount of system ram. When I’m drawing i usually have the layers as follows 1) a photo of the object 2) an outline of the object...
  11. Mike576

    the old puma

    Once the transfer is done I go over it with light dot cuts to outline everything so I can remove the transfer. These dots are tiny and spaced apart like in this photo. Hopefully this helps! Getting the layout and proportions correct was the hardest part for me when I first started bulino.
  12. Mike576

    the old puma

    For transferring I use procreate on my iPad. I make the opacity about 60% then trace over all the main distinguishing features like the eyes, nose, main lines of feathers, changes in lighting etc. then I transfer just the lines to the metal with a standard acetone transfer. Gives me accurate...
  13. Mike576

    Photorealistic/Advanced bulino questions

    I’m not sure if this is considered sealing but afterwards I use renaissance wax to help prevent any corrosion.
  14. Mike576

    Photorealistic/Advanced bulino questions

    Thank you! I’m trying really hard with this one. The whiskers are a bit of a disappointment so far in my eyes but still decent. I’ll do better next time
  15. Mike576

    Photorealistic/Advanced bulino questions

    That’s another thing I wonder. Some engravers use ink. Some do not, hard to find out who does/doesnt. I personally do since it makes for a deeper black but the areas engraved look dark just from the cuts. Once the ink is added it’s like you adjusted the exposure in a photo. I use speedball...
  16. Mike576

    Photorealistic/Advanced bulino questions

    Good idea still an option as I haven’t gotten too far along
  17. Mike576

    Photorealistic/Advanced bulino questions

    @Sageoconnell I started up a new project to get used to working with darker shades. I’ll post it when finished but here’s a peak. Thanks again for the tip!
  18. Mike576

    Photorealistic/Advanced bulino questions

    great illustration of your point! I’ll make sure to focus of this on my next project.
  19. Mike576

    Photorealistic/Advanced bulino questions

    Thanks for the tip, I’ll look into that concept. Art is new to me, never been a very artistic person. I have a very analytical brain so all these concepts are new to me. Learning a lot as I go! Always scared to over darken an area and wreck a piece.
  20. Mike576

    Lindsay template question

    With the Lindsay temples when the graver gets too short Steve sells an extension collet that makes the graver long enough again. Without that you can only use them down to a certain length. After that point the angle will change slightly with each sharpening.

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