I don't know what kind of problems you are going to make for yourself.
Or what type of items you intend to engrave.
But hundreds of engravers have used the GRS standard and positioning vises to successfully engrave thousands of firearms, jewelry and other items.
If you buy one of these vises...
tdelewis,
Thanks for the tip.
To be fair and honest, must say I have not tried Tira's dotting punches on guns.
They might be good and hold up to hard steel. Will give them a try.
Many dot or beading punches are made for use on jewelry and softer metals.
These will not stand up to the punching required for steel or firearms.
The best American punches for these metals are the ones made by the Ngraver Co.
Sadly, these Ngraver punches are now difficult to buy and in short...
As you say, Roger.
I have seen the same from the Liege trained FN Browning engravers. No layout, just cut from memory.
Some made a so-called "layout" with wax and powder and different sized thumb prints to space their scrolls.
Absolutely amazing. They would be talking to you while doing this and...
Working engravers had to produce almost exact copies of the standard Browning engraving patterns.
They had available the earliest form of photo copies for the working Browning engravers to follow.
These were much larger than the actual engravings and not used for transfer.
They were copies of...
The Grade I Browning over/under was a standard engraving pattern as shown in the Browning catalog.
Nothing very special, just very nice, well cut engraving.
The total amount of engraving and pieces to be engraved in that number of guns in one day is mind blowing.!
I agree with Roger.
No way would the pistol take a European factory trained engraver nearly a year to engrave.
The picture shows just lots of coverage of pretty nice standard factory engraving. No inlays or anything special.
To put this in perspective.
The FN Belgium factory engravers were...
The variable speed Ngraver Magna Graver 2 V impact handpiece can produce engraving that has the same progression marks as most hammer and chisel engraving.
With a skilled operator using this Ngraver handpiece I think very few people could tell the difference in the work.
Ray Phillips, the...
Contact Cerakote for advise.
And also get a liability release in writing from your friend before cutting.
Even then, do a small test cut under the grips.
As Papart said, a bench model can do the job.
I used a Sears Craftsman 14 inch floor model drill press and modified the column to hold the scope mount's vertical column. Works well for me.
C. J. Cai, a FEGA Master Engraver from Honolulu, Hawaii has completed full engraving and inlay works on very valuable fountainpens. These won awards at the FEGA engravers show.
A search of his website or the FEGA forum may show pictures of his fine work.
I have no idea if C. J. would be willing...
The first scope I had was a B&L, a good American scope.
Mine had threads for the Barlow lens but Monks suggestion will work.
B&L made some good products. Best of luck with your scope.
Good try, but do what Sam said.
Slow down a little and draw left and right hand scroll backbones.
Also practice drawing the outline shapes of your leaf elements.
With practice your muscle memory will develop and thing will get smoother and easier.
A good start. Don't like the sanding marks though!
I would suggest a little lighter hand on the shading.
And closer spacing.
Not enough difference between your main and shading cuts.
Good effort, correct things and do it again please.
I believe you will like the results of your work.