It doesn't take much of the inletting black to darken the Renaissance Wax. You need to experiment with small amounts. Take about a tablespoon of wax and mix in the inletting black until you are happy with the look. The wax will dry rather quickly after it is mixed. The drying time, when...
Is anyone out there using the new PulseGraver? I haven't seen any mention of it on the Forum. I'm sure someone must have tried it. If it is a good dependable machine it would be good for a beginner as it doesn't need a compressor.
I like SamW's method. I thought I was the only one using it. Instead of lamp black I use inletting black. It same thing, only it comes in a neat little container from Brownell's. I mix it in a small container with a screw top. They are about the size of a 50 cent piece. My wife gets them...
I used a block of wood and drilled holes in it to carry the gravers. I have also used plexiglass and epoxied three layers together and drilled holes in that. I purchased a small toolbox from Lowes to carry those in and others stuff as well. Best to have one with a removeable tray on top. I...
Does it really need to be so accurate just so the heel and face are symmetrical. and it works. The angle of the face can change according to the hardness. The heel can be long or short depending on the type pf engraving.
I have found that the acetone, laser printer method works well even for fine detail. The way you make it durable and not rub off is to use a heat gun and heat the item. It will fix the toner on the metal so it will not rub off. Heat is used to fix it on the paper it will make it adhere the...
If I understand your question, you want to reduce the reflection of the cuts after engraving. This is sometimes called French gray. Some people use toilet bowl cleaner. Some may say to use muriatic acid. Others might say that the surface of the metal should be hardened and then put in a...
You might want to scan the full size drawing into something like adobe illustrator or some other program that will allow you to trace over the drawing using vectors. Then reduce the drawing to the size needed for transfer. Print the vector drawing. It will transfer much darker than a pencil...
Big boy brass can be gummy. Also, if it is a casting there could be places where small chunks can come out if you ae not careful. Yes, disassemble, it will make it much easier. Check out gunengraving.org/engravablity.shtml#henry
I get my punch dot tools from engraver.com, Tira Mitchell. They are very good and durable. I polish them by using diamond spray on leather and spin the point in the leather. I use No. 1 or 2 for background.
Tira Mitchell's Hand Engraving Tools, Jewelry Tools and Stone setting tools...
I always grind my gravers with a flat spot where the setscrew will seat against the graver. I use mostly round gravers. When I started using them I had one slip when the setscrew became loose. I also do this with square gravers before they are ground and sharpened.
I know the level of polish you put on a firearm before engraving can be a matter of taste. The other day I suggested a finish of 320 grit for final finish. The reason I suggested this is because I was under the impression that the manufactures use 320 grit for final polish. I know that this...
Because of the rapid impacts of an air engraver, the cut can be much smoother. However, if you want the air engraver to look more like H&C just turn the machine down to a very slow speed so the impacts are similar to the speed of H&C.
Don't do it. If you want to continue with it, the finish will need to be removed and a finish of 320 grit polish before engraving. Then finish in a traditional way. To me it is not all the time.