Dear Goldjockey,
Thank you for your kind and supportive comments.
Upon completion and oxidation I realized the cutting and shading of Lincoln’s top coat is too heavy and shading needs refinement.....
All part of the “learning curve” and more practice.
I also am a silversmith, specializing...
Dear Engravers Cafe friends:
I have been studying and practicing for 1 1/2 years. I'm a beginner and a student.
Thank you for viewing and your comments.
Dave Friedman
Yes, you can certainly use the Stay-Brite soldering flux. I use an all-purpose liquid soldering flux:
weldcote metals Liquid Soldering Flux Lot#5118-01.
Do NOT use brazing flux (borax).
I solder stainless steel very frequently...... Low temp. Stay-Brite silver solder flows around 430-degrees..... You MUST first bring the entire flask "Up to temperature" (flux will start to bubble) not try and solder just a small area...... this heating takes time and patience, probably slow...
I kinda thought so..... Are you the individual who is very into calligraphy?
I live in Bellingham, Washington.
My son lives in Portland.
I also am a lover of script and lettering.
Dear Engravers:
Would I be correct when engraving a stainless steel watch the movement is removed from the case?
Also, are the links on the band dis-assembled, or can the band and links be engraved without dis-assembly?
Thank you!
Dave Friedman
Dear Engravers,
I have an HP inkjet printer....I have Tom White’s transfer sheets and Transfer Magic.... when I print ink comes out “wet” and doesn’t dry well, causing transfer problems..... Any help/answers to this situation to aid in transfer process is appreciated.
Thank you!
Dave
Dear Engravers,
I am a new student to engraving..... I have had some good success and some problems with making transfers with clear acetate sheets. I am using Tom White's "Transfer Magic". I am following his instructions.
I am using the following supplies/equipment:
~Canon Pixma MG3620 Ink-Jet...