Now that y'all mention it, I was thinking that "SR" looked kinda familiar, too! Seems like I've seen that "SW" on the side in the 3rd & 4th pics before somewhere, as well. Hmmmm......
Thanks, Martin! Apparently it was just done so BADLY it was unrecognizable. So, to recap:
An inexperienced/incompetent operator
+ Poorly set up, worn out, wobbly machine
+ Dull tool point
+ Worn template?
+ Chatter & dragging & skipping
= That mess.
I was tasked with engraving over the bad pantograph lettering* on the base of a golf tournament trophy (oh, the glamorous life of a world-class artist!) and it was fairly large, hollow, and not particularly sturdy. While it was pretty heavy gauge copper, thickly nickel plated, its overall size...
i use a a piece of 3/4" plywood slightly smaller* than the dimensions of the plate, then use wood screws to attach a 3/4" x 1.5"w x length of board cleat on the back. it gets repositioned as necessary.
*i use a thin smear of hot glue to attach the plate. when you want to remove it, flip it...
"mitch, if i didn't know better, i would say that you are trying to make me do MORE work than if i drew it on the piece...."
you seemed intent upon avoiding that. i use "whatever works best". sometimes that's drawing right on the metal, sometimes on paper>transfer, sometimes a hybrid method...
draw it on paper. go to your local office supply. make a copy on a transparency. make a copy thru the back of the transparency. you can adjust/reduce the size at whichever step you find most convenient. use a process for transfers with laser printers.
"and face if you want a mirror finish. If you only polish the heel you still will have a "sawtooth" cutting"
AND you have to polish the rear/trailing edge of the heel facet(s) where they meet the bottom/belly of the graver body. rather than polish a tiny flat length of the belly, i recommend...