SS comes in a wide variety of grades/alloys and heat treatment/hardness. they range from fairly pleasant to engrave to impossible. how to tell the difference comes with experience.
your neck is too short, Jon. you need to find a good chiropractor who believes in fairly aggressive 'adjustments'. in a pinch, the local hangman may be of service.
For years the old CCW motor was in the new CW motor box on a shelf in my shop (I can envision the exact spot), but when I moved a few years ago I got pretty ruthless with stuff that only collected dust in the last 10-15 yrs. It may not have survived The Great Purge. IIRC, I just called the mfr...
The old Cafe system stored our photos so that if we'd already uploaded & posted one in a previous thread, we could find & reuse it thru "Manage Attachments" in the Advanced(?) option for replies or new posts. Are they still in here somewhere or lost to the cyber-sands of time in a great data...
the old single direction motors are about $60 if you call the mfr on the nameplate. i might even have one around from when i switched mine to reverse rotation. how old is yours?
when you hot glue it to a block, leave one edge or at least a corner overhanging the wood. to remove it, flip it over and put just a couple drops of acetone on the exposed edge of metal and push down. the instant the solvent starts to wick between the metal and the glue it will pop off. do it...
some plastics hand engrave pretty well. i've tried a bunch of 'em, and off the top of my head Delrin/acetal/POM was my favorite. some are too soft, some chip/crack, some just don't cut cleanly, but it seems the acetal family was fairly amenable to the process.
1) Instead of Chinese white, etc., try a thin schmear of damar varnish. You can draw on it with an ordinary pencil pretty well and it doesn't flake as badly when applied over a very clean surface.
2) If you're trying to grip an odd-shaped/tapered/angled object in your vise jaws but it keeps...
remember that engraving is pretty much just drawing with cuts in metal. the medium & scale is different, but much can be learned from studying pen & ink sketches. engraved printing plates & prints are a good source for bridging the gap between the two.
there should be a set screw in the side of the lower half that provides friction to adjust how easy/hard the top turns. if you back it out far enough, or remove it entirely, the upper section should lift straight off.
i see them frequently in my area (it must be woodpecker heaven, because there are about eight species around here). it's fun to watch them try to eat peanut butter off a feeder built for much smaller birds, then fly to a nearby tree and use the bark for a napkin.
they're often seen in mated...
i use the laser with plain paper method and yes, it often requires some pretty creative tricks to get it registered/positioned exactly where you want it.
in general, i usually flip it over on a lightbox and draw a few key guide lines in pencil to mark some edges, screw holes, existing...
i've done a lot of lettering and studied a fair amount of typography, but i only knew maybe a fourth of these terms: https://codepo8.github.io/typography-cheatsheet/
Gordon- How do you get up close to your vise & scope? My vise is on a 'tongue' extension shelf on the front of my bench and pretty much sits in my lap. Your set-up makes my back hurt just looking at the photo...
they're not called "Harbor Disposable Tools" for nothing. having said that, there is one near my house and i buy the occasional simple, basic items. for example, i'm pretty pleased with a pair of work gloves i picked up a few months ago. i can already tell they're not gonna last, but they fit...
...in a most unusual place? I just finished reading "High Crimes", by Michael Kodas, which is about climbing Everest (and what a deadly, dangerous, crowded, corrupt, sh**showdumpsterfire that circus has become over the last 20 yrs or so!!!). In the photos there was a shot of Tibetan women...