Whatever works for you. I tape a piece of clear acetate over the area then scribe in some scroll intersections for indexing then scribe in the outline of the animals. This way I can see the excess gold and everything else very easily.
The transfer I use to originally locate an animal does not have indexing to use again for the gold. I doubt that by the time I redraw, cut and add teeth that the outline would be accurate enough so I make a new indexed overlay.
At this stage I make an acetate overlay indexed on the scroll pattern and then outline the animals so that when the gold is set I can find the outline of the animal and know where to trim the gold.
Ditto Marty's comments. I always try to get the action facing towards the muzzle. Also as Marty says, there are occasional exceptions but I always try to keep the action forward.
I use a flat toothpick to put a small dab of wax (unheated) on some wax paper then dip the end of the toothpick into the lampblack. Then stir the lampblack into the wax and use. It does not take much lampblack to make the wax black. This will darken cuts and heko bring out detail without...
I have had great success with the Renaissance wax and lamp black. I use the lamp black because it does not add anything but the fine lamp black. Then I put a few clear coats of wax over the tinted coats.
I normally use wire for inlaying animals. I use .016" pure gold and it leaves about .008" above the surface of the steel. I cut the outline of the animal ( or other objects) into the steel, and then sculpt the basic shape into the steel prior to cutting the teeth and undercutting the outline...
Allen, no, that s not needed. I just put a small dab of wax on some wax paper and then stir in a small amount of lamp black with a toothpick and smear it in place with a finger tip. I never had the problem JJ mentions.
I usually mask off the area I wish to grey and remove the blue with naval jelly. A few applications of the jelly helps really get the metal looking right. I don't protect the cuts with wax. Instead, I apply Renaissance wax with some lamp black added to blacken the cuts after blue removal. A...
Copper takes a good first hit to set. One thing I do is make/use a flat bit of steel large enough to cover the inlay sheet so I can "hit" the whole area the first whack. I have not done a copper inlay the size you are attempting.
John B mentioned bounce and that will be a real problem if any exists. It keeps the inlay from setting into the undercuts/teeth. So if you have a problem setting the copper check bounce first. I have had on occasion had to place a block of hardwood or metal under the item and resting on the...