Sam, I have been using tallow and bees wax for years. Mine is stiff but works fine holding powdered white tempura water color medium --- chalk dust will do just fine. I also have a bottle of nurses white shoe polish in which I mixed some muslage glue and a tad of water ro fhin to a usable state. Into this bottle of stuff, I add some #4 shot that helps keep stuff well mixed after shaking container. It must be applied to freahly degreased metal & will hold great. Mostly I use the tallow/bees wax and powder. FWIW Ken
Thanks Sam & John B
I have the winsor& newton block and just checked the web site,it still has lead 1 PPM and zinc oxide. Guess I will quit licking my finger. Dumb old plumber should have learned that before now Things you need to know to be a plumber- payday is friday,Boss is SOB,hot is on the left, don't chew your finger nails
I used to use Chinese White until I left it over night on a gun...finished the lay-out..lightly scribed everything...it was late, and decided to get up the next morning..clean the Chinese White off and start engraving. Much to my surprise I had some surface rust, after that I decided Chinese White was NOT for me.
I remembered McKenzie tools pictured in the front of the American Engraver's book..."Mutton Tallow"...got my attention. So that is what I use..I mix it myself 1/2 bees wax and 1/2 bacon grease, and put them into a recycled tuna tin. It is very tacky..I tap it on the gun..then I take a very fine water color brush an stipple on
white talc...I think it was Marty Rabino who gave me this recipe. Chinese White is okay for silver, gold, and brass but I would not put it on steel.
JJ: I had the same experience with steel rusting under Chinese white. I'm glad you brought this point up because it's an important one. I guess if you can use Chinese white on ferrous metal if you're prepared to cut the design, remove the white, and re-oil the metal.
I've not tried dusting beeswax & tallow with powder. Sounds like a good idea. / ~Sam