Help, please: choosing microscope set-up

[Brian Marshall]

Donny,


Do we get to hear the "ugly", "unfortunate" details? I lost one in a shop fire - pretty well melted... and another off a flatbed bed truck on the freeway whilst abandoning the place during a flood.

As it turned out, the water only got within about 90 feet of my shop. Took a month to move everything back into place and get back into production.


Brian

 

[sam]

Round vs square drill press table - I'll toss in my 2-cents. The drill press tables on the instructor benches at GRS are the bigass square ones. The good news is they're big, solid, and have a trough around the edge that can catch chips or rest tools. The bad news is they're so wide that it's difficult (for me anyway) to get your legs comfortably around them. And I think with repeated use the coarse cast iron might wear out your pants.

I bought the heavy duty Harbor Freight drill press with square table for my for my student bench. It has a heavier column and is beefier than the Grizzly on my bench, but it's unnecessary overkill. I tried the square table for a day and the nice folks at Harbor Freight let me exchange it for a smaller round table like my Grizzly.

The bottom line is the square table works, but I think you're much better off and certainly more comfortable working with the smaller round one. At least that's my experience.

 

[MICHAEL]

Thx for your opinion Sam. It's engraving like yours (and the others who have responded to my questions) that I aspire to. I've been talking to Steve on his site about the table he is selling. I forgot that Ray Cover came up with the idea for the stand. If he's around would like his 2¢. I like the idea of this stand because it can be quickly moved and my vise moved back to the bench if needed. Just don't want to rule out the stand. It seems like a good idea. Just doesn't seem Like as much mass as a Drill press stand. Would like to know if anyone knows if that would be an issue or not. Please excuse typos, will try to edit this later. On break at work / fighting my phone. Thx.

 

[sam]

I've not seen Steve's stand, but I've seen pics of his turntable which looks good. I don't remember Ray's but you can probably find him on Facebook as he's more active there.

My drill press stands are permanently mounted to the floor so it's a big commitment to make as far as location goes. I have seen pics of someone (Rod Cameron maybe?) who uses the base that comes with the drill press and turns it around to face backward. With this arrangement it would be movable and not bolted to the floor. I think I'd probably fill the base with cement to give it extra weight.

Marty use the drill press stand but has it mounted to the underside of his bench, so there's another option.

Using the SITE SERACH link at the top I searched "DRILL PRESS" and got these results. Hopefully it'll help you with your decision.

 

[Brian Marshall]

We have a hardwood floor - underneath the thin plywood and linoleum I covered it with when I set up shop.

Didn't want to drill holes in the floor to bolt down the base.

Thought about it a while, and finally decided on another way.

My bench, full of equipment, chasing tools, fixtures, etc. probably weighs more than 600 pounds.

So, I made sure of the measurements from the floor to the underside of the bench and cut the column accordingly.

Made a "collar" outta plexiglass and screwed it to the underside.

Jacked up the bench, slid the column into place, lined it up to fit the the collar and dropped the bench down.

Works fine. Been using it that way for 16 years. (without the rectangular base, just the ferrule that Sam bolted to his floor)


Brian

 

[sam]

I think that's a great way to mount it, Brian. I wouldn't want to drill into hardwood floors either. I could have done that with my student bench but my bench has drawers that pull out and I would have had to sacrifice them. Probably the best thing is to design a bench around this stand so you can relocate as you like. Mine is definitely not movable without considerable difficulty.

 

[KCSteve]

If you don't have any astigmatism then you should be able to use the scope with or without your glasses. Probably be a different 'zero' setting so make marks for both ways.

I turned my drill press base around and bolted it to the bottom to the bottom part of my bench. Keeps it in place nice and sturdy without it being in my way.

 

[Toad]

Michael, I bought a leica A60 from Tara after using a couple Meijii scopes that belonged to friends. I found the Leica to be more crisp and clear. I bought a drill press off of craigslist and use a Lindsay turntable and low profile vise. It all together works great for me. I saw no reason to buy a positioning vise. There is a lot of good info here. All the best to you.
Todd

 

[MICHAEL]

Thanks Sam, that was a lot of great info you linked me to. Couldn't find it when I tried to do advanced search but found It when I clicked your link. I decided to go with the drill press stand. I like John B's set-up. Will look for one tomorrow at pawn shops and flea market. Found a Grizzly Like Rex's for $95.00 on Craig's list in town!
Now just trying to decide between Meiji-EMZ5 scope, arm stand w/ headrest, and LED light, or Leica A60-F scope, arm and LED light, no headrest. Even with a package discount, I would pay $384.00 more for the Meiji. I'm thinking, and may be wrong, that most engravers use the Meiji. If that is so and I need help, I'll have a better chance of getting help if I have a Meiji. Also GRS has been there when I needed help. There has always been someone there to help answer my questions or send me parts. I would appreciate input to help me decide on which microscope.
I plan on installing a thrust bearing, so my table rotates smoothly. Am I correct in thinking I will not need a turn table?
I have a Gravermach, does anyone know if I can connect an AT handpiece? I have an air output on the back not being used. I have 2 air hose connectors on the front not being used. Since I'm going with drill press stand set-up, thought I might get this also, so I can stand while doing firearm barrels / when tired of sitting. I really appreciate all the help!

 

[Toad]

Michael, you really need to look through both scopes before you pull the trigger. Otherwise you may have buyers remorse. At Scotts last engrave in I was able to look through a number of Mejii's that were there, as well as the Leica. There were 4 Leica's there and sold within an hour. There were a bunch of guys wishing they could taken one home. Ray Covers sister said in jest that she was gonna kick my ass if I bought her scope. Lol. I said I already did. She ran up and bought one. As far as a head rest goes. I make mine for under $30.00 including some fake lambs wool I bought at Joamm fabrics. I'll take a picture later.

 

[fegarex]

I don't use a turntable as the 12" drill press table with a thrust bearing works for me. There were 2 GraverMach machines and if your machine is a GraverMach AT it is Airtact ready. From the description it sounds like it. You will need to get AT knobs for the hand pieces you have.

 

[MICHAEL]

Ordered a Leica A60-f scope from Tira today.:banana: Got confirmation on smarter than me phone, it's speeding it's way to me as I type. Didn't have any luck getting a drill press stand today. Found 2 possibilities. A Black bull at tractor supply $275.00 OTD (has 12 inch round table / floor model), and a Craftsman 10 inch round table top model $250.00 OTD. The craftsman will go on sale soon, I was assured, last sale price was $179.99. Either one will be there next week when I get my scope. Left message with local guy posting grizzly floor model for $95.00, this is the one I'm holding out for.
Anyone have any input about black bull or craftsman model drill press stands? Especially since the craftsman is a 10 inch table.

 

[LVVP]

Michael,

Did you check GRIZZLY SUPPLIER?

I use this one and very happy

 

[Toad]

Michael, congratulations on the Leica. As far as the Chinese and Tawian drill presses. These drill presses have been being imported to the USA since the 1970's. There all very similar so much so. That I wouldn be surprised if some of them will interchange parts. I find that the main differences are with the drill head as far as quality and options go. That is something we don't care about that anyway. I think I would buy the $95.00 press you found in Craigslist. Steve Lindsay's stand is looks great. I am tempted to buy one for the same reasons you said. You can swing a barrel with an action or mono block on it.

Todd

 

[MICHAEL]

Spent the morning cutting down my Porter Cable drill press to 29 ". Realized real quick I could not leave it long like I originally planned(unable to swing a barrel). Tried to place it under my bench / again, no go. It was either cut up / reinforce bench, find new one or rearrange work area. I was able to rearrange work area and it's working. I saw where Ray Cover suggested to lap the table in for a better fit / I did this with valve grinding compound. Been cutting the rest of the day. Man, I can't believe how much more comfortable it is to be able to adjust the work to you instead of the other way around! I thought turning the table would take some time to get used to. it was actually better / easier to cut. I found I could continue cutting (Table is 13" across), when with the ball vise, I would have to stop more often, reposition my left hand, then continue my cut. My table is turning very smoothly without the thrust bearing. Have a little red and tacky #2 from Lucas oil for lube. Anyone foresee any problems without the thrust bearing?
Should get the microscope any day now. I'm set up / ready to go. I appreciate all the help I've been getting. One of these days I'm still gonna get Steve's stand / his air graver. There I times I want to be outside and still engrave. Would be nice to set up in the yard or on the porch and keep "cutting".

 

[dlilazteca]

Drill press stand priceless!

Saludos,
Carlos

 

[zzcutter]

I got my drill press from Harbor frieght. check them out they are always running sales. You will love your scope I have had one for two years and has worked flawless for me and if ever have any problems Tira is always there to answer your questions.

 

[Zukiidesigns]

Help with engraving arm position

The positioning vise does have it's uses...

In my case the largest proportion of my work is done in about 2.5 inch area - moving back & forth, up & down under the scope.

Because of my admittedly unusual circumstances - working with my engraving arm in a sling suspended from the ceiling, it was(is) the best solution for me.

It's been 12 years now...


I do use other vises for specific jobs. For inside ring engraving I have a small vise custom made by Ray LeTourneau, and in the upstairs studio there are larger vises like the low profile dovetail vise that is no longer made.

I've also got both the GRS low profile and the newer Lindsay on turntables out in the classroom at the moment.

If you were closer to my place you could come try them all out, but I don't know of anywhere out in your direction that you could do that?


Brian

Hi Brian,

I'm not sure you'll see this, this is my first reply to a thread and not sure I'm doing it right. Your sling set up for your engraving arm sound exactly like what I need. I get pain quickly from holding my arm in the air. Do you have a picture of your set up?

In general, I'm searching on this site for help in setting up my scope, vise, etc.

Thanks, Linda
Zukii Designs

 

[Brian Marshall]

Hi Linda,

Basically what I've done was start with an anchored hook in the ceiling right over the drafting chair that I work from. Then I found a 6" by 1" coil spring with a loop in both ends. This took some experimentation and I recommend that you find a hardware store that has several different "pulls" in the same measurements. One that will let you return those that turn out to be too strong or too weak.

I made up the sling liner out of a piece of wool skin, same as you see lining a saddle skirt. In fact, this is scrap from an old relining job. (How near are you to a saddle shop? One with a scrap bin?)

The sling itself is made of a piece of 2" 9/10 oz. belt leather tapered down to an inch where the "D" rings are attached. Measures 24" from fold to fold. Then I have just loosely stitched the wool skin around the 2" section with the wool facing out to cushion your arm.

Use some nylon or polypro clothesline cord for a trial run. Run it through both "D" rings and up to the spring. Fool around adjusting it for the proper length to hold your arm in a position that is comfortable for you. Test how much movement you get from the spring. Too strong and you will get very little and too weak will have your arm constantly bouncing up & down as you work. The right "feel" will hold your arm in position and without too much effort "give" about 3 to 4 inches in downward movement.

Keep fooling with the length of the cord and the tension of the spring until you find the proper height and movement to be able to cut comfortably.

One warning I will give you, and this varies according to age, anatomical characteristics and the phase of the moon. Take the time to release yourself from this device at least every hour. You will be slowing down the blood supply and lymph with constant pressure. By now, I take a 5 minute break every 30 minutes. Find what works for you. Definitely don't use it until your arm begins to go numb!


It's a simple rig and I was always going to improve on it with some rubber or felt padding with a channel cut in it for the nerve and blood vessels that run on the underside of the arm. Never got one of those "round tuit" coins... so I've used it now for 12 years as it is. I do b*tch about it a lot though...


Brian