First hand drawn Scroll Design engraved on a Don Cowles knife

[billrice@charter.net]

OK here a I go, you guys are probably the only group that understands the anxiety I have in showing my Engraving work to. The picture is of the really first engraving on a knife that I fully hand drew ( no Computers or transfer used only chinese white and a pencil Then I cut is out. I have been practicing my drawing based on Sams DVD's and Lee Griffths DVD. I know there is allot of room for improvement However I really want you all to start critiqueing me So I can continue to improve. I feel that I have jumped one of my first hurdles in Drawing and desigining my Engraved work. Not that I will never use a Computer or Transfer Method again but I really want to push myself to this level. You guys always amaze me with your engravings I am always inspired by you to continue to improve.

 

[Sam]

Bill: Congrats on your leap into drawing and not transferring!

Critique: 1.) All of your leaves on the outside of the scroll are pointing in the wrong direction. 2.) The background is not smooth and flat. Work on that some more and get it perfect.

Keep drawing in your sketchpad and honing your skills. This is better than my first attempts!

~Sam

 

[billrice@charter.net]

Sam

Thanks for your information and critique. I knew there was something not right with this engraving and don't ya know it is the leaves are backward. I am using a high speed drill to remove the extra metal then I have a punch I put in my hand engraver and try to rework the rough surface. As you can see I have not been to successful. Any suggestions to getting this done would be appreciated. I have another knife that I am going to engrave the same way only I want to Engrave it with the critiques I get from this picture and see if I can improve a little. So keep up the good comments.

Thanks for your honesty and time

Oh by the way just ask my wife, I try to draw every night after work. In fact I carry a small drawing book in my back pocket and doodle at lunch or when I get a spare moment.

 

[Andrew Biggs]

Hi Bill

The high speed drills/burrs are not good for removing large backgrounds. They are perfect for small areas but not big ones. The amount of punching you are doing may also be work hardening the metal. You can only do so much with a punch!!!

Use a flat graver and that will give you a better and more consistent level background. Have 2 or 3 small flats in different sizes. Also rock the heel from about 25 degrees down to 0 degrees and that will give you plenty of clearance for the walls of the engraving.

You can do it a couple of ways. First scoop the background out with a square graver and then go in with a flat. The square graver gives you a depth gauge.................or you can start and finish with flats. Make the initial removal a small distance apart and then go back and remove the in between metal. This also acts as a depth gauge. On big areas you run the risk of having the bottom curve upwards in the middle and not be as low as the outside areas.

When drawing directly onto the metal...................keep your lines super thin with a ball point burnisher or very sharp pencil. If you have a lot of thick lines you lose track of where you are supposed to be. Keep rubbing it out if you have to.

Cheers
Andrew

 

[billrice@charter.net]

Andrew again this is great advice. I understand what you mean and I will do this on my next project. I look forward to your advice on my future postings
Thanks this info is priceless. Hopefully I will improve on the next one

 

[Andrew Biggs]

Hi Bill

When using flats just don't try and remove too much metal all at once. Otherwise you'll be sharpening more than you have to. Go around the edges first and gradually work your way down. Patience is a virtue when it comes to removing backgrounds..............and keep your heels small.

If you have uneven areas then you can punch them down slightly to even them out if you want...............or stipple the hell out of them to even them out

Cheers
Andrew

 

[Marrinan]

Bill, I would suggest that you begin background removal by cutting your design just slightly more than a scribed line using either the square or onglette held vertical and at right angle to the surface. Next cut a series of Paralle lines the same width (same width equals same depth). These are called witness lines. Cut a second set of lines identically the same width and depth at ninety degrees to the first. You can get into various corners by altering the angle (right angle cuts). Use the widest flats possible to remove the pyramids you have created. If more depth is desired simply repeat. Next, do whatever texturing to the background. Now cut you design with the rolled and varying depth lines to get that three dimensional sparkle. I did not think this up myself but it gives the best and most consistent backgrounds I have found.

As an alternative some of the very best of the English engravers use acids to remove the background to a very very consistant and even depth. I have not used this method but it is on my list to learn. Check with Marcus Hunt, I believe he has expertise in this method.-Fred

 

[billrice@charter.net]

Fred

I think I am following what you are suggesting. If I understand you correctly I should cut the design with very light lines then remove the background as you have suggested then I can go back and recut the design only with heavier cuts. I do like the background method you have explained.

 

[Marrinan]

Bill, That is how I work. It allows a sparkling cut at the edge of the design that would be obliterated with the stippling tool if done otherwise. If you cut your finished line before the backgrounding it is more difficult to prevent damage to your beveled cuts. Others may do it differently but it is the method I use most often with background removal. Fred

 

[billrice@charter.net]

Sounds good to me. I will be working on it this weekend I will let you see what I come up with. This has be excellant information
Thanks to all of you for sharing. Oh by the way I went to the art center today by Cal Poly University and picked up some 9H pencils. They have no problem getting them They have quite a few in stock. There is a difference. before my pencil lead was breaking away all the time and the pencil line kept getting fat.