Graver Lube

[JKRice]

I would like to know what would be a good graver lube? I’m cutting silver, brass, and mild steel. Thanks, Jerry

 

[monk]

kerosene, 3 in one oill, wd 40, oil of wintergreen, tap magic, and maybe a dozen more. my pers fave-- kerosene

 

[alwayslearning2012]

I personally use pipe Threading oil. I think it's similar to tap magic, but I got it from work, so it was free.

 

[T.G.III]

could not agree more, if you can locate the vintage cutting oil it's full of the really slickery stuff that has since been mostly banned.

 

[monk]

I personally use pipe Threading oil. I think it's similar to tap magic, but I got it from work, so it was free.

free. then it's surely the very best

 

[Adder]

If I remember correct from Meeks book. Put some drops of kerosene on a cotton ball. Put it in a small jar or simular, and just dip the graver point in to it.....

 

[Travis Fry]

Would this be an appropriate place to ask under what circumstances lubing one's graver is necessary? I understand that it's basically a requirement if cutting alumin(i)um, but what else?

 

[AllenClapp]

GRS sells a kit with a sponge-filled metal cup and a small can of Tap Magic' Aluminum cutting fluid that works good on all metals and great on softer metals. Tap Magic sells cutting fluids made specifically for steel that works great on most metals and has less odor than the Aluminum version. Using lubricant is especially good when cutting harder metals and when bright cutting any metal [it helps a polished graver do its magic]. Some engravers prefer to rub a little lubrication on the metal with a finger instead of dabbing the graver on a lubricated sponge at intervals. In either case, a little goes a long way.

 

[Crazy Horse]

Recently I found a bottle of Singer Sewing Machine oil that my mother had for her sewing machine. That oil must be over 70 years old...maybe older. I use it sometimes. I also use Hoppees gun oil, Military gun oil that I used in Viet Nam, Break Free, 3 in 1, Motor oil, light grease, some pink tapping paste I used when I was a machinist, wax....fact is they all work. Is one better than another? Only God knows and he hasn't presented a formal study as of yet.
I haven't tried spit, but I'm pretty sure that would work in a pinch. ;~)

 

[monk]

Recently I found a bottle of Singer Sewing Machine oil that my mother had for her sewing machine. That oil must be over 70 years old...maybe older. I use it sometimes. I also use Hoppees gun oil, Military gun oil that I used in Viet Nam, Break Free, 3 in 1, Motor oil, light grease, some pink tapping paste I used when I was a machinist, wax....fact is they all work. Is one better than another? Only God knows and he hasn't presented a formal study as of yet.
I haven't tried spit, but I'm pretty sure that would work in a pinch. ;~)

spit much better if one chews tobacco.

 

[papart1]

I've tried a bunch.............I settled on the wintergreen oil

 

[JKRice]

could not agree more, if you can locate the vintage cutting oil it's full of the really slickery stuff that has since been mostly banned.

View attachment 53032

T.G.III, Thanks, I located and purchased a vintage pint can of Galaxy thread cutting oil on eBay. Jerry

 

[DKanger]

Kerosine is expensive as are other items mentioned. I'd go to a pay at the pump and get a quarters worth of diesel fuel and repeat if I ever needed more. It works as good as anything mentioned in this thread.

 

[JKRice]

GRS sells a kit with a sponge-filled metal cup and a small can of Tap Magic' Aluminum cutting fluid that works good on all metals and great on softer metals. Tap Magic sells cutting fluids made specifically for steel that works great on most metals and has less odor than the Aluminum version. Using lubricant is especially good when cutting harder metals and when bright cutting any metal [it helps a polished graver do its magic]. Some engravers prefer to rub a little lubrication on the metal with a finger instead of dabbing the graver on a lubricated sponge at intervals. In either case, a little goes a long way.

Allen, I really like the Tap Majic for aluminum. I was pleasantly surprised that it didn’t have an odor, as strong as the Tap Magic.for steel. Thanks, Jerry

 

[AJB]

To add a crazy sounding option, bacon grease is an old machinist standby for tapping holes and similar operations. In my experience, it works well for machining operations of steel that require lubrication. I’ve never tried lubrication for engraving, so I can’t vouch for how it might compare to store bought lubricants. For machining aluminum, WD40 is well liked, and it would probably be the same for engraving.

 

[JKRice]

To add a crazy sounding option, bacon grease is an old machinist standby for tapping holes and similar operations. In my experience, it works well for machining operations of steel that require lubrication. I’ve never tried lubrication for engraving, so I can’t vouch for how it might compare to store bought lubricants. For machining aluminum, WD40 is well liked, and it would probably be the same for engraving.

AJB, from a tool and die back ground I know exactly what you’re talking about in using rendered lard for tapping lube. Works great in tool steels. Jerry

 

[sam]

I use whatever's closest. Cutting oil, sewing machine oil, household oil, tap magic. I can't say I notice a difference in any of them.

 

[Crazy Horse]

I use whatever's closest. Cutting oil, sewing machine oil, household oil, tap magic. I can't say I notice a difference in any of them.

My po[nt exactly Sam. As I said, in a pinch you would probably get decent results with spit.

 

[monk]

Kerosine is expensive as are other items mentioned. I'd go to a pay at the pump and get a quarters worth of diesel fuel and repeat if I ever needed more. It works as good as anything mentioned in this thread.

a shot glass full will last 2 or 3 lifetimes

 

[monk]

there's another trick. to keep gravers sharper and longer, one need merely to insert the gravers in a fresh potato. left overnight, surprising how well that worx