Marius Mellebye - EngraverHand Designs and Artwork

Flatsguide

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Marius, thanks for sharing the stippling info. I increased the idle speed of my Lindsay palm tool and ground a HSS bit to a pencil point then put 4 tiny facets on the point with a 2000 grit stone and played with that. It made a very black field. Thanks again, would never had though of increasing the idle speed myself.
Cheers Richard
 

allan621

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In the tool I have a super sharp carbalt
You do incredible work, shows a lot of thought and an amazing amount of practice. I use carbalt tools for almost everything, but I'm wondering about the super sharp part. Is there something extra you do the increase the sharpness or is the tool just plain old very sharp?
 

EngraverHand

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Marius, thanks for sharing the stippling info. I increased the idle speed of my Lindsay palm tool and ground a HSS bit to a pencil point then put 4 tiny facets on the point with a 2000 grit stone and played with that. It made a very black field. Thanks again, would never had though of increasing the idle speed myself.
Cheers Richard
Awesome, glad you fount it useful! :)
 

EngraverHand

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You do incredible work, shows a lot of thought and an amazing amount of practice. I use carbalt tools for almost everything, but I'm wondering about the super sharp part. Is there something extra you do the increase the sharpness or is the tool just plain old very sharp?
Thank you very much! :) Just plain old very sharp, but I sharp it with 3 faces.. not sure if that would do any difference, but I feel it´s getting sharper and holds up better :)
 

allan621

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Okay, now I have to admit it. I'm a big fan of your procreate drawings in addition to your metal engraving. The procreate dot brush just highlights the amount of understanding you have of light and shadows. The subtle transitions from deepest shadow to lighter areas are wonderful and even though everything has a cast of grey ( except for a few fold over sections ) there is a vibrancy to your work that is amazing.

And you do this to relax?
 

EngraverHand

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Okay, now I have to admit it. I'm a big fan of your procreate drawings in addition to your metal engraving. The procreate dot brush just highlights the amount of understanding you have of light and shadows. The subtle transitions from deepest shadow to lighter areas are wonderful and even though everything has a cast of grey ( except for a few fold over sections ) there is a vibrancy to your work that is amazing.

And you do this to relax?
Thank you very much! :) Oh yes, beside engraving, and making music now and then, nothing more joyful and relaxing.. Even after a full day engraving, I love to sit down and draw.. I try to draw every day, coming up with new designs (for me).. some just for the design and some for helping me with the way I design and engrave. :)

I love it all! :) Thanks again for a very kind feedback! :)
 

EngraverHand

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In the first page of this thread, there is a ring I engraved some months ago. I sent it off to the client and after a few days he got a great idea to polish it with some kind of electric buffer... it was poslished to death! It was devastating to see all the work I put into it was just ruined in a few seconds.

Well, it came back to my bench to try to restore it the best I could.. it´s impossible to get it as before, but it will be alright for the naked eye. I wasn't planning to even take photos, but I think it turned out better than I was hoping for.. see last picture how it returned to me :)

Even though I´m quite satisfied with the result, it was the most boring and sad job.. I really wish I was without it, but.. client is all happy :)

R1.jpg R2.jpg R3.jpg R4.jpg
 

allan621

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I never let an engraving job go to a jeweler to polish because of the polishing wheel. The problem with the wheel is that not only does the lighter surface engravings get wiped out but the wheel also takes the edge off, rounding the edges slightly and giving it a worn look. A piece of flat metal stock can be pre-polished on the wheel but once engraved it gets hand polished.

Allan
 

mtlctr

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I never let an engraving job go to a jeweler to polish because of the polishing wheel. The problem with the wheel is that not only does the lighter surface engravings get wiped out but the wheel also takes the edge off, rounding the edges slightly and giving it a worn look. A piece of flat metal stock can be pre-polished on the wheel but once engraved it gets hand polished.

Allan
Wouldn’t think a gold ring being worn needs to be polished.
 

EngraverHand

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I never let an engraving job go to a jeweler to polish because of the polishing wheel. The problem with the wheel is that not only does the lighter surface engravings get wiped out but the wheel also takes the edge off, rounding the edges slightly and giving it a worn look. A piece of flat metal stock can be pre-polished on the wheel but once engraved it gets hand polished.

Allan
I think the client did it himself in a unconscious moment.. I told him not to, but.. the rounded edges made it a lot harder to try to fix. The outline and shading I could “easily” do again, but with all round edges the shading and reconstruction some shapes was really tricky.. for the naked eye it’s going to look alright :)
 

BenHickey

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Hi, I see a few of the pieces you have here are stainless steel. How are you engraving on them? I have some stainless steel for practice, but it is just destroying my gravers...
 

EngraverHand

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Hi, I see a few of the pieces you have here are stainless steel. How are you engraving on them? I have some stainless steel for practice, but it is just destroying my gravers...

Sorry for late reply.. been away for a while. Anyway, there are a few tips that can help for engraving stainless..

One is patience, practice and graver control which will be better the more your try. At least the practice and graver control, but what you can do before to help a little is to choose the right graver for the job. Personally I like the M48. It’s quite strong but way less brittle than a carbalt. If a carbalt breaks it’s a lot of sharpening to do to make the graver sharp again. I prefer to touch up the M48 more often.. always keep the graver sharp.

if the steel is very hard I make the face a little more steep. Maybe around 55+ degrees.. it makes the tip stronger.

also keep the item you are engraving as stable as possible, preferably without any vibration.. any little vibration can be a tip breaker.

that’s a few things that can help.. it also depends what stainless you are trying to engrave.. 300 series are usually crap.. gummy and hard. If it’s hardened steel, don’t touch it, at least not yet.. 400 series are much more fun and nice to your gravers.
Hope that helps a little :)
 

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