Help, please: New at engraving , need help getting started with a small budget.
- Thread starter jzknives
- Start date
dlilazteca
~ Elite 1000 Member ~
Some more questions guys. You are a huge huge help and I appreciate each post.
1. The GRS manga block. Is this heavy enough for hammer and chisel? Meaning it won't move or shift with each hammer strike?
2. Book suggestions? I have Meeks book. Are there some other essentials that help with engraving and layout ect.
3. Is there a cheaper alternative to a power hone?
4. QUick change system? I only have 3 gravers. Two traditional ones and one square one. Would it be wise to switch to quick change from now on?
5. Marking tools. I had a scriber I had laying around and is terrible for use on metal. Is there a community "favorite" scriber that draws lines simply without complication?
6. Is a chasing hammer absolutely needed? I'm using a crab mallet righ now and it seems to work , am I wrong?
1. The GRS manga block. Is this heavy enough for hammer and chisel? Meaning it won't move or shift with each hammer strike?
2. Book suggestions? I have Meeks book. Are there some other essentials that help with engraving and layout ect.
3. Is there a cheaper alternative to a power hone?
4. QUick change system? I only have 3 gravers. Two traditional ones and one square one. Would it be wise to switch to quick change from now on?
5. Marking tools. I had a scriber I had laying around and is terrible for use on metal. Is there a community "favorite" scriber that draws lines simply without complication?
6. Is a chasing hammer absolutely needed? I'm using a crab mallet righ now and it seems to work , am I wrong?
Marcus Hunt
~ Elite 1000 Member ~
Magna block should be heavy enough and is more flexible if you want to hand push or go to air assistance.
Books: Ron Smith's 'Advanced Drawing of Scrolls' and (I don't have it but have good reports) Lee Griffith's book which is advertised on this sight.
Cheaper than Powerhone? Yes, get diamond bench stones. I got a set for my father from Lindsay and he reckons they are fantastic.
3 gravers = 3 handles....you don't need QC. 1 handle = 10+ gravers, yes it's worthwhile but far from necessary. Make up handles from broom handles and they'll cost you pennies. That's what I always did before starting with air assist.
Get a decent etcher's scriber. I use one about 8 - 10 inches long with a burnisher one end and a scriber the other. All steel with an attractive twist in the middle and marked E C Lyons NY. I don't care much for the cheap aluminium ones with a carbide scribe. They work but I find the balance is all wrong. Keep your scriber/burnisher well polished and don't make it too sharp. It's only meant to lightly mark the surface not gouge into it.
Chasing hammer is the way to go because it gives a crisp strike and you can build a nice rhythm. It's not like hitting a nail. The grip should be light and your thumb is for control not grip. Anything will work, even a rock and if it works for you that's great. But tools have evolved for good reason over the centuries.
Books: Ron Smith's 'Advanced Drawing of Scrolls' and (I don't have it but have good reports) Lee Griffith's book which is advertised on this sight.
Cheaper than Powerhone? Yes, get diamond bench stones. I got a set for my father from Lindsay and he reckons they are fantastic.
3 gravers = 3 handles....you don't need QC. 1 handle = 10+ gravers, yes it's worthwhile but far from necessary. Make up handles from broom handles and they'll cost you pennies. That's what I always did before starting with air assist.
Get a decent etcher's scriber. I use one about 8 - 10 inches long with a burnisher one end and a scriber the other. All steel with an attractive twist in the middle and marked E C Lyons NY. I don't care much for the cheap aluminium ones with a carbide scribe. They work but I find the balance is all wrong. Keep your scriber/burnisher well polished and don't make it too sharp. It's only meant to lightly mark the surface not gouge into it.
Chasing hammer is the way to go because it gives a crisp strike and you can build a nice rhythm. It's not like hitting a nail. The grip should be light and your thumb is for control not grip. Anything will work, even a rock and if it works for you that's great. But tools have evolved for good reason over the centuries.
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silverchip
~ Elite 1000 Member ~
JZ's eatin well if he's got a crab mallet!!!!!!!!!!!LOL
1. Okay good just want to make sure before i drop money on it and have it move around every time i chisel lol.
2. Lol i meant like a motor powered one. My arm is getting tired and my diamond stone is seemingly wearing out.
3. Okay great I was initially confused because it said "advanced" drawing of scrolls and didnt see a "intermediate" or "beginner" designer of scrolls , i though it was a book in a series.
4. The reason I asked about the quick change is its quickly becoming a pain to juggle allen wrenches to get my gravers out and into the lindsay template. I thought it would just be easier to have an entire lot sharpened and just pop them off as they go dull and switch for a sharp ones. Im asking now because i only have a few gravers and if i should switch i should switch now right?
5. thanks
6. Thanks i thought so.
lol this is heresy that im saying this , but im a marylander and i HATE crabs and all seafood! my parents are ashamed of me and all my freinds too!
Jörmungandr
Elite Cafe Member
For roughening out gravers I use a drill press with a diamond disc from Lindsay. With good success. It's not as accurate and nice as a powerhone, but I have access to drill presses and it's fast. After it's roughed I do a finer sharpening on the stones.
Agree. I use the drill press (actually my Sherline milling machine) for roughing the graver. I sharpen by hand. Lindsay sells a nice mandrel for the drill press/disc.
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Here is a new practice plate I finished today.
The hardest thing for me is getting the lines smooth. Second hardest thing is keeping the depth consistent.
I have not done any shading because all of the practice i have done with it has ended up looking terrible. Are there any good tutorials on shading the type of engraving i am doing?
the closest class is in fairfax VA , which is very far away for me.
what are some of the mistakes ?
Roger Bleile
~ Elite 1000 Member ~
JZ,
By looking at your practice plate, I can see that your skill is not yet where you should be trying to cut scrollwork. You need to practice cutting straight lines, arcs, and circles to gain skill at depth control and smoothness. In the mean time, study and practice scroll drawing. An engraver cannot cut what he or she cannot draw. The Ron Smith book is pure gold. When I was a beginner, almost 40 years ago, I would have paid $1,000. for a book like that.
RB
By looking at your practice plate, I can see that your skill is not yet where you should be trying to cut scrollwork. You need to practice cutting straight lines, arcs, and circles to gain skill at depth control and smoothness. In the mean time, study and practice scroll drawing. An engraver cannot cut what he or she cannot draw. The Ron Smith book is pure gold. When I was a beginner, almost 40 years ago, I would have paid $1,000. for a book like that.
RB
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