Announcement: New instructional video on The Art of Flare Cutting

rweigel

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Dec 22, 2017
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As promised, now for the downloaded videos:

iPad
practice pdf is found in the player, under media

Windows
practice pdf is found at the bottom of the chapter list
strange enough, the chapter list is located in a window titled „Alfano art monogram...“
It also tells me there are more movies to download, but if I enable it, it does not download a thing

So everything works, I‘m happy, the first practice plate with straight lines is cut. Navigating the graver with this kind of roll and getting the roll symmetrical will take more practice plates...

Best regards,

Ralf
 

sam

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As promised, now for the downloaded videos:

iPad
practice pdf is found in the player, under media

Windows
practice pdf is found at the bottom of the chapter list
strange enough, the chapter list is located in a window titled „Alfano art monogram...“
It also tells me there are more movies to download, but if I enable it, it does not download a thing

So everything works, I‘m happy, the first practice plate with straight lines is cut. Navigating the graver with this kind of roll and getting the roll symmetrical will take more practice plates...

Best regards,

Ralf

Thanks for your feedback Ralf. The chapter list issue is really odd. I will contact the company that hosts my videos and see if I can get that fixed.

Glad everything is working for you and I'll be anxious to see your flare cutting results :)
 

Bandida8

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Jul 29, 2013
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Location
Leander, Texas
I've just completed a new video on The Art of Flare Cutting. Check out the trailer below and if you're interested in ordering go to https://engraving-videos.com/dvd_catalog.html

Note: Due to covid-19 complications with the company I use for DVD manufacture, I'm not sure when I will have the retail packaged version, so this is a pre-sale. The only difference is this one doesn't have a printed jacket. The content is the same.

This is really a terrific style of engraving everyone should learn, as it cuts fast, looks great, and pleases customers. Plus mastering these types of cuts will make you a better engraver.

Ordered mine
 
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monk

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i watched it. some say a foto is worth a thousand words. this video is worth a couple jillion words. reading how this is done was confusing to me. the vid removes the confusion. one question : what sort of font would you think best for this cut ? really curious about that, sam.
 

sam

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i watched it. some say a foto is worth a thousand words. this video is worth a couple jillion words. reading how this is done was confusing to me. the vid removes the confusion. one question : what sort of font would you think best for this cut ? really curious about that, sam.

Monk: I've used it on script, Roman, and block lettering like this. Lots of possibilities.
 

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Mike Cirelli

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Western PA
This is a great Video. The clarity and instruction of the video are impeccable. If you want to see and learn flare cutting at its best this is a must-have. Nice straight forward way of doing flare cutting. The only bad thing about this video is you're not going to flare cut as clean as Sam by watching the video. You might have to practice.
 
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mdengraver

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Rockville, MD
Yes Mike, Sam's cutting has that certain flare and panache! What do they call that sleight of hand?
 
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Big-Un

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Eden, NC
Reviewed the CD tonight and discovered I was cutting the "flare" backwards, cutting the backhand first! Just understanding the process has really opened my eyes on this type of cut. Thanks Sam.
 
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mdengraver

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Sam's technique comes from a French word:
legerdemain. When a magician waves his hands over a hat and pulls out a rabbit, he is performing an act of legerdemain or trickery. Legerdemain can be used literally to describe a magic trick, or figuratively to describe some other kind of trickery or deceit.
 

rweigel

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After cutting a lot of straight and curved line practise, I still have difficulties to get the graver roll symmetrical for forehand and backhand cut. This is what I tried already:

-grinding two facets on top of the graver, with the same angle as the V shape, to have an indicator for the roll angle

-changing the microscope setup such that the scope looks under 90 degree at the metal (was a lot of work and completely useless)

Neither helped much, there is still a strong tendency to roll the graver more away from me than towards me. Is there some magic trick for better roll angle control? Please do not mention the P word (practise)... I‘m learning the basics without teacher, things which are commonly known and understood to professional engravers might be news for me.

Thanks a lot

Ralf
 

Sinterklaas

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Holland
After cutting a lot of straight and curved line practise, I still have difficulties to get the graver roll symmetrical for forehand and backhand cut. This is what I tried already:

-grinding two facets on top of the graver, with the same angle as the V shape, to have an indicator for the roll angle

-changing the microscope setup such that the scope looks under 90 degree at the metal (was a lot of work and completely useless)

Neither helped much, there is still a strong tendency to roll the graver more away from me than towards me. Is there some magic trick for better roll angle control? Please do not mention the P word (practise)... I‘m learning the basics without teacher, things which are commonly known and understood to professional engravers might be news for me.

Thanks a lot

Ralf

What about cutting the other half in the opposite direction of the first cut? Then you are always cutting the roll angle. Either always away or always toward you what ever you prefer.

So cut as you normaly would. Then for the 2nd cut rotate your work/vise 180degrees. Now you can cut the 2nd cut with the same roll (either away or towards) as the 1st cut.
 

rweigel

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France (north of Alsace, close to Germany)
I totally agree with the idea.

I was just trying to follow Sam‘s video. There‘s something we Germans call „die reine Lehre“, meaning you follow the instructions by the letter and do not mess around or skip steps in case the student is ignorant of the importance of a certain step.

I‘ll go cutting to give the idea a try...

Best regards,

Ralf
 

bildio

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Dec 11, 2010
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MD
After cutting a lot of straight and curved line practise, I still have difficulties to get the graver roll symmetrical for forehand and backhand cut. This is what I tried already:

-grinding two facets on top of the graver, with the same angle as the V shape, to have an indicator for the roll angle

-changing the microscope setup such that the scope looks under 90 degree at the metal (was a lot of work and completely useless)

Neither helped much, there is still a strong tendency to roll the graver more away from me than towards me. Is there some magic trick for better roll angle control? Please do not mention the P word (practise)... I‘m learning the basics without teacher, things which are commonly known and understood to professional engravers might be news for me.

Thanks a lot

Ralf
I have the same problem when using a microscope. I do better positioning the graver with an Optivisor, but it's hard to see the lines due to my poor vision.
 

rweigel

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Messages
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Location
France (north of Alsace, close to Germany)
Just tried Sinterklas‘ suggestion. Works well for straight lines. Used on curves, it uncoverered the additional problem that cutting left bends seems more natural to me than right bends. Starting the left bend‘s backhand cut in the „Wrong“ direction makes it look as bad as a right bend...

Bildio: I‘ll try the Optivisor tomorrow, the microscope was anyway set to 15x only, it might just work. Thank you very muchfor the suggestion.

When people are taught piano beginner lessons, there are excercises for the “independance of the hands“. Is there something similiar for engravinging, like e.g. drawing something on paper mounted in the ball vise while pushing the pencil forward with the domiant hand and turning the ball vise with the other?

If you work with a ball vise on a turntable, do you grip the ball vise or the turntable when you turn it? The ball vise might sit pretty much out of center sometimes. None of my old engraving book covers that subject.

Rest regards

Ralf
 

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