Parallel Point Length
- Thread starter JKRice
- Start date
Jerry, Just make sure the parallel heel is even on both sides. J.J.
AllenClapp
Elite Cafe Member
Longer [wider] heels can help you cut a straighter line. However, longer heels can drag on the outside of sharper curves, so shorter heels work better for tight spirals or leaf edge cuts. Similarly, low heel angles are more likely to have the rear of the point to drag across the outside of curves and higher heel angles are less likely to damage the outside of curves.
rweigel
Elite Cafe Member
To avoid heel drag when flare cutting, I was aiming for shorter and shorter heels, until I realised that a very short heel makes the graver hard to control and requires lower angles of attack. Else it will dig in. I had not enough freedom for my handpiece and fingers.
I grind now arround 0.2 mm heels on carbide gravers, and polish /round the transition to the belly with 0.5um diamond paste on a felt wheel. This reduces the progress marks. I work mostly with Silver / Argentium and German Silver (Copper/Nickel alloy).
I hope this information helps
Ralf
I grind now arround 0.2 mm heels on carbide gravers, and polish /round the transition to the belly with 0.5um diamond paste on a felt wheel. This reduces the progress marks. I work mostly with Silver / Argentium and German Silver (Copper/Nickel alloy).
I hope this information helps
Ralf
Leland Davis
Elite Cafe Member
JK, only you can figure out what works for you. I sharpen on a 600 grit wheel after I grind the face I shut off the wheel and push the heel about 3/4 of an inch on each side. It works for me but may not for you. I think you can get to hung up on exact geometry when consistency is more important. This thread should give you a starting point to find what works for you.
Good luck
Good luck
Sponsors
