Question on stickers and rotaries

[bpeak]

I know that lead-in was strange, but I have strange question so... I guess it fits.

I have a goal in front of me to recreate the logo from a favorite whiskey of mine by etching it into the glass of the bottle while it still contains the original contents. I think it would be really neat to have for my own dry sink liquor cabinet and use as a decanter for refilling.

Question is... I'm thinking of scoring through the label to get the main lines and general orientation on the piece. I am using a rotary engraving tool (and will most llikely use the diamond bits for glass as I have done before). Will the glue in the label clog up the bit that I am using? would it be better to score through the label with a sharp (non-rotary) instrument... peel off the label and clean with goo-gone or something, then freehand the rest?

I just got the complete diamond bit set from GRS and certainly don't want to take a risk of ruining them.

Any thoughts on this rotary tool thought???

Thanks in advance! I really appreciate your time.

Brandon

 

[Bill Brockway]

Brandon -

I don't know anything about grinding through labels, but it just hit me --- why not try it out on a peanut butter or pickle jar first? Then you'll know.

Bill

 

[jimzim75]

Since your in for a long job anyway. Would it not be a good idea to use
an exacto knife and remove an outline of what you want to engrave.
Maybe a q-tip to remove the glue with a solvent. Sort of like removing a
mask for paint on a bikes fine line detail. You could then etch out the basic
pattern with the diamond bur, with the glue not being a problem?

 

[jimzim75]

You could also scan the label and import it into corel Draw or adobe
illustrator. Reduce it to a black and white image and correct any
problems. Reverse it and then use a transfer sheet to print it on the
bottle.

 

[Sam]

I think Jim's scanning and transfer advice might be best. As for the tool itself, I've used a carbide point stipple glass and it works beautifully. Never used a rotary tool so I can't comment. I'm not sure I'd like trying to work through a paper label.

 

[bpeak]

wow jim... thats a great idea with an exacto knife... the label itself is a B&W so there wouldnt be a need for care in a shaded area or anything. I think that might be the way to go...

Awesome. That didn't take long at all.

Thanks!!!

 

[bpeak]

Yea Sam, I tried to use a carbide bit in my tool the first time and the result was a very rough and rigid line. The carbide wants to dig in too much, even when using the tiniest bit I own. Diamond bits in the rotary have been best for me with glass and most soft metals.

Thanks again guys!

 

[Ray Cover]

Sam's right. Take the label off scan it in and use Tom's Transfer magic to transer to the glass from the printed transparency.

Ray

 

[jimzim75]

I think Bill may just be happy with the exacto knife, because it doesn't take all the equipement to get there,
but ya know, the transfer idea may be ideal for glass grinders, if it can be water proofed.

 

[Sam]

This might not work on a bottle, but I've put a printout behind a flat glass plate and then stippled (or burred in your case) from the other side. Worked pretty well, but the thickness of the glass makes it tricky to maintain dead-zero accuracy as you trace the design.

 

[Jim-Iowa]

I have little doubt your on the right track. However one detail concerns me? You want to etch this bottle with it's valuable contents still in it. If that is precious to you I think it might be risky?

 

[Mike Cirelli]

I have used carbide dental burs in the HS hand piece to etch on glass. If you have a variety of sizes the carbide burs will go right through with little clogging. The bad thing is that you will have a big paper build up and if there's any fine detail you probably won't be able to accomplish it. If a transfer is able to be made, I agree that would be the best. You may want to try using a wide scotch tape like the tape Sam suggests in his transfer video, I don't remember the number. Anyway apply the tape with plenty of excess around the label. Then pull off carefully and the label should remain on the tape. You can clean the bottle and glue off and reapply the label which would be much thinner. Or instead of reapplying the label scan and transfer, if the transfer doesn't work you still have the label.
Just my thoughts
good luck
Mike

 

[metalartz]

Having done some lapidary work I think the transfer is the way to go, may be some clear spray paint on top. In working on glass with diamond you are going to want to use water to keep the tool cool and the dust out of your lungs, and the water with be weakening the label so it may peel or fall apart before you are ready.

-david

 

[monk]

if the diamond clogs, a few turns in a shotglass of water will usually clean it. you must wear a respirator and eye protection for this work. i would never cut this stuff dry. it's bad for the diamond, for one thing. you can use carbides if your rpm is up to about 100,000 or so. if less, the flutes will drive you nuts. i buy bonded diamond from patterson dental co. they have jillions of shapes/sizes. don't get used ones from your dentist ! the very area of the burr you want to use is usually worn away!

 

[quickcut07]

I've never done this type of stuff, but if you go to youtube.com and type in engraving.
Look for Lesley Pyke and watch her various video's on glass engraving. This woman's
work is absolutely remarkable. It will show you what can be engraved on glass, and the
detail you can get.