Question: Transferring Designs to Project

Jericho

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Jul 27, 2012
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Location
Okoboji, Iowa
:thinking: I am new to engraving and am trying to get my designs (drawn, scanned, and printed to size) onto my project but I am having no luck with the Acetone method I have learned. I have recently ordered some Applique Film for use on gunstock and am wondering if this will also work on metal while using a rotary tool. I also would like to learn how to get my designs onto blued metal since ink of course shows up black. I have designs ready for a replica Colt 1851 and just need this help to get me started :tiphat:
 

monk

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two things you don't want to do------
1 using a rotary tool on a gun. this will lead to disaster from the beginning. these tools are difficult to control, and will not allow anything resembling "real" engraving.
2 engraving through the gun bluing is not the way to go. the blued finish should be removed, and the gun is then engraved "in the white". if you must, there are several ways to lighten the blued finish. you can find them in the tips section on pattern transfer.
 

unclejim1955

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Jan 14, 2011
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Spanish Fork, Utah
I never had much success with the parchment. A friend told me about Pictorio overhead transparency film and it works great. I buy it on line from B&H photo supply. I use a 70% alcohol 30% dammar varnish solution. Don't use rubbing alcohol, it's about 30% water. I buy denatured alcohol from Home Depot. It's the same process as the parchment, but the film is clearer and better for precise placement. Make sure it's dry and tacky before attempting the transfer. DISCLAIMER: This is just my opinion and I'm sure many will be quick to disagree.
 

chickenscratcher

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Nov 22, 2009
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Location
Harlan, IN
Jericho. I just discovered thst if you put a layer of the frosted scott brand tape on the paper you are going to print your image on ( of course at the location on the paper the image will print) a very good transfer can be made using an ink jet printer. I use a Epson color stylus printer and as soon as it comes out of the printer cut out the area that was printed tape it over the area to be engraved and then burnish it to the item to be engraved. Prepair everything in advance. Clean surface, put on a white back ground (I use chinese white or sometimes a artist white water color paint) They are dry and have dull finish thet the transfer sticks to, and finish with a workable fixitive spray. A thin coat so the image isn't rubbed off easy. luck
 

Jericho

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Jul 27, 2012
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Location
Okoboji, Iowa
Chickenscratcher: I really like this idea and think it will suit my needs but I have a couple questions. First will the paint damage the original finish on the gun and also do I need to put some sort of protectant on beforehand to avoid damage when both engraving and removing the paint?
 

monk

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the paint will not damage the original gun finish. if i understand your second question=== no protectant should be needed. be aware though, the use of chinese white can be obliterated by your fingers. other white coatings may chip or flake away during the engraving process. neither situation is good. when i want a white ground, i use what i call "cirelli sauce". this concoction was invented by member, mike cirelli. it doesn't chip or flake when cutting, and is fairly resistant to finger smudging. his formula is in the tips section of the forum. i added a bit of white tempera paint powder to mikes' sauce, and it will take pencil drawing rather nicely.
i looked at mikes' tip. he suggests approx 25% damar varnish- approx 75% zippo lighter fluid. as i mentioned-- after making the sauce-- i began adding white powdered tempera paint - just a bit at a time. i tested each and stopped adding the powder when i was happy with it taking pencil draing.
 
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