My new antique engraving vise

Red Green

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Sam, while it's not the low profile model having 'The Special" is special. The engraving looks a bit odd, I think most engravers today would use the sword to underline rather than pass through the lettering. It appears they broke the blade lines around the lettering to move it to the background, still it's a bit distracting and losses its intended effect I think. I think I would have tried tilting the blade down so the tip rested just below the lower lobe of the L. I think it would have a more dramatic and less distracting effect on the lettering, how would you have handled it?

Bob
 

Roger Bleile

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Muehlmatt (Cincinnati, Ohio) had several patents on engraving vises. Sam's is The Special and mine is marked The Monarch with an elk's head logo. Mine was patented in1892. Muehlmatt also made the original vise called The Victor. I have seen a number of other variations.

The vises that we commonly use today, like The Victor, have deeper jaws because they are made to hold gun parts that won't fit in these old lower profile vises. I use mine for really small items no bigger than a grip cap because the jaws only have about a half inch of depth.

Below are two images of an ADM Victor. It is not my vise. If it was it wouldn't be covered in rust.
 

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Red Green

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Roger, have you considered a web based or maybe a new book on antique tools and techniques, "A Photographic Museum of Engraving Antiquities"? I would think there would be interest outside of engravers.

Bob
 

Roger Bleile

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Roger, have you considered a web based or maybe a new book on antique tools and techniques, "A Photographic Museum of Engraving Antiquities"? I would think there would be interest outside of engravers.

Bob

Bob,

Before I write a book, I have to have a publisher that believes in the concept and is willing to invest in it, expecting a financial return based on perceived demand. I would also have to have enough material and background information for a viable publication. At this point I have neither.

As to a web site, I have some of these tools in my glossary site and will probably add more in the future.

Roger
 

Red Green

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I had the idea that there were too small a number of engravers for any publisher to consider investing any money into related work. I was sure all books on the subject were self published, I had no idea there were sales numbers at that level. It would be nice to be able to have all research and information on the subject done before thinking of writing the book, I've never heard of that technique before, how do you know what to collect before you know the subject? I have so much to learn. I'm sure you are correct everything pertinent is in the glossary.

Bob
 
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Roger Bleile

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I had the idea that there were too small a number of engravers for any publisher to consider investing any money into related work. I was sure all books on the subject were self published, I had no idea there were sales numbers at that level. It would be nice to be able to have all research and information on the subject done before thinking of writing the book, I've never heard of that technique before, how do you know what to collect before you know the subject? I have so much to learn. I'm sure you are correct everything pertinent is in the glossary.

Bob

Some people self publish (and usually lose their shirt) but I won't do it. If a successful publisher believes enough in my project and me to undertake production then I feel that it is worthwhile to proceed. If we ever meet, I can explain in greater detail.
 

Roger Bleile

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Roger,
Have you ever used the LeTourneau?
Looks brand spanking new.
Or was it new when the pic was taken?
michael

Mike,

I got the LeTerneau from Jeff Flannery nearly new, he had two. Later he wanted it back and traded a GRS positioning vise for it. I found the LeTerneau too heavy for most of the work I do.

I have used that Vigor as my primary vise for over 30 years. It is an inferior Japanese copy of a Victor. I couldn't find a Victor at the time but the Vigor has served me well. My approach has been to use the smallest vise that is practical for a given job. That little Monarch is great for burin work in softer metals.

Roger
 
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monk

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sam: there's a product called neatsfoot oil. specially formulated to restore and preserve leather. i think i'd try that before olive oil. olive oli can sometimes get rancid.
 

Brian Marshall

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Not only that, but if you are around livestock - olive oil seems to taste really good...



Finding pure neatsfoot oil (the absolute best choice) in the average retail store is NOT always easy.

Rendered from the bones and feet of cattle - it is a natural oil.

Most people seem to settle for "Neatsfoot Oil Compound" or "Prime Neatsfoot Oil" - which is usually 20% or less of the natural oil. 80% is mineral oil.

It's all about profit - and most people fail to understand the word "Compound" or question the use of the word "Prime".



Brian
 
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tundratrekers@mtaonline.n

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Yes,I would like to get one like your Monarch,and Special.
Put me on the list if ever.....you will pass it on.
I am sure between you and your brother, there must be some up and coming engravers in the family.
Also,olive oil, and beeswax, is EXCELLENT to put on your boots,sand bag, And if stiff enough mixture,its THE transfer wax.

Yes, the dogs have been on the boots in past.
But if kept out of reach,is fine.
I use it like renaissance wax, also fine for graver handles.
I use it on knife handles also.

God Bless,
michael
 
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Roger B

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Sam,

I have a very similar model but English and marked "GEC". The height is 14cm - just shy of 6 inches.

You mentioned a screw. I think you will find that it creates a drag when rotated.

Roger
 

bram ramon

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Realy cool these vises. My interest in engraving started at the age of 18 i needed a ballvise bu did not have the money so i made it my self: [video=youtube;pC6UYQ0CNDw]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pC6UYQ0CNDw[/video]
 

sam

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sam: there's a product called neatsfoot oil. specially formulated to restore and preserve leather. i think i'd try that before olive oil. olive oli can sometimes get rancid.

Thanks monk. I remember neatsfoot oil...I used to have some of that years ago. I'll give that a try. Thanks!
 

sam

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Sam,

I have a very similar model but English and marked "GEC". The height is 14cm - just shy of 6 inches.

You mentioned a screw. I think you will find that it creates a drag when rotated.

Roger

Yes, it raises and lowers the rotating top causing more or less friction on the base.
 

DakotaDocMartin

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Thanks monk. I remember neatsfoot oil...I used to have some of that years ago. I'll give that a try. Thanks!

I used Lexol on the dried out leather wrapping on the handle of my Civil War cavalry saber and it brought it right back to life. You just have go sparingly no matter what you decide to use and not soak it. Lexol Leather Conditioner
 

mitch

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sam: there's a product called neatsfoot oil. specially formulated to restore and preserve leather. i think i'd try that before olive oil. olive oli can sometimes get rancid.

thanks, monk- that's exactly what i was going to say.
 

jr hoot gibson

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If you use neatsfoot oil, use only PURE neatsfoot, the stuff marketed as neatsfoot compound contains petroleum byproducts and will harm the leather and stitching. Take my word for this as I am a retired boot maker and saddlemaker.
 

rod

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For tool makers, the ball vise is a beautiful piece to make for yourself, and Bram, you did a splendid job making yours!

I got my old twin of Sam's antique just down the road, from a jeweler pal, now deceased. I kept the antique, and in the pile was another good ball vise, now owned by Katherine Plumer. My pal was a pretty good jeweler, but just think about how his vise felt moving up the ladder to a world class scrim artist?

These antiques are the perfect hand push vise for smaller stuff... keeps those precious fingers out of the way when your graver slips...

The temptation is to polish up the base, but I would rather keep it as is, and trust some of the old engraver's sweat works it way into my hands and passes on the tradition?

Rod
 

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