hello fellow Engravers,
Tools are very importand in every profession. A key item for Engravers is the Ball vise. As an engraving Student my budget is streched and therefore I was looking for an economic solution for my ball vise. I like to share with you my experience.
After analysing the prices for used and new ball vises I dcided to buy an imported vise with 30 acessories and shipping for $200. The vise came the day before I started trying with Master Engraver JJ Roberts. We compared his US made and my import vise side by side. What a difference his vise turned smooth 360 degrees without problems. mine had rought spots every 40 to 60 degree. I put it away and when I came home overhauled it. Here the story.
After dissasembeling and cleaning I inspected the parts. all surfaces were very rought. high support and low tool speed. The surfaces of the ball which rotate on each other looked from the top like the Rocky mountain landscape. There were also lental size (Lunker) cast enclosures.
I used 80 grid paper to start smoothening the surface than 220 and than 320.
The Breaking mechanisem did not work proper. The tip of the tigtening screw had the wrong geometry and I reshaped it symetricly.
Since I did not know the materials used I decided to put a leather patch between the stoping screw tip and the turning ball half to avoid dents. I also reworked wthe running surface of the top ball half with band grinder sandpaper.
The vise spindel had 0.8mm (hoehenschlag) I corected it to 0.2mm.
I polished the race of the ball bearing and inspected and adjusted the ball bearing cage.
After deburring, grinding, leveling and somoothening all surfaces I cleaned everything with break cleaner. This is cheap (2.50 $/can) and sprays away all grinding and other dirt.
Than I cleand every thing with a micro cloth (M3)
Before I assembled every thing I lubricated the spindel with grease and the ball beatings and half ball with oil for now.
It would be better to use lithium grease for the spindels becaus this is a high performance greace and does not make a mess. As oil I would use a special blend as used by my associate in Ft. Bragg. He is a Master Rigger and uses his own blend for the sewingmachines for decades sucessfully.
After 2 days I assembeled everything and it turns now smooth and you have a linear fine dosed breaking action.
Conclusion:
Is it wise to buy an imported vise?
This depends on your time and skills available. If you have a lot of time and solid machinist skills (not a one week course) I would recomed the cheap import ball vise.
If you have a payed job and moderate machinist skills stay away from low quality import vises.
keep the chips flying
Bernie
Tools are very importand in every profession. A key item for Engravers is the Ball vise. As an engraving Student my budget is streched and therefore I was looking for an economic solution for my ball vise. I like to share with you my experience.
After analysing the prices for used and new ball vises I dcided to buy an imported vise with 30 acessories and shipping for $200. The vise came the day before I started trying with Master Engraver JJ Roberts. We compared his US made and my import vise side by side. What a difference his vise turned smooth 360 degrees without problems. mine had rought spots every 40 to 60 degree. I put it away and when I came home overhauled it. Here the story.
After dissasembeling and cleaning I inspected the parts. all surfaces were very rought. high support and low tool speed. The surfaces of the ball which rotate on each other looked from the top like the Rocky mountain landscape. There were also lental size (Lunker) cast enclosures.
I used 80 grid paper to start smoothening the surface than 220 and than 320.
The Breaking mechanisem did not work proper. The tip of the tigtening screw had the wrong geometry and I reshaped it symetricly.
Since I did not know the materials used I decided to put a leather patch between the stoping screw tip and the turning ball half to avoid dents. I also reworked wthe running surface of the top ball half with band grinder sandpaper.
The vise spindel had 0.8mm (hoehenschlag) I corected it to 0.2mm.
I polished the race of the ball bearing and inspected and adjusted the ball bearing cage.
After deburring, grinding, leveling and somoothening all surfaces I cleaned everything with break cleaner. This is cheap (2.50 $/can) and sprays away all grinding and other dirt.
Than I cleand every thing with a micro cloth (M3)
Before I assembled every thing I lubricated the spindel with grease and the ball beatings and half ball with oil for now.
It would be better to use lithium grease for the spindels becaus this is a high performance greace and does not make a mess. As oil I would use a special blend as used by my associate in Ft. Bragg. He is a Master Rigger and uses his own blend for the sewingmachines for decades sucessfully.
After 2 days I assembeled everything and it turns now smooth and you have a linear fine dosed breaking action.
Conclusion:
Is it wise to buy an imported vise?
This depends on your time and skills available. If you have a lot of time and solid machinist skills (not a one week course) I would recomed the cheap import ball vise.
If you have a payed job and moderate machinist skills stay away from low quality import vises.
keep the chips flying
Bernie