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  1. SamW

    Critique Request Realistic work, Bulino shading techniques

    I basically use a sharp scribe to do as you do, but add just a tiny little flip upwards as I remove the point to remove a tiny bit of the metal. As i go along I will scrape a fingernail over the work to remove burrs. Great work...especially the eyes!
  2. SamW

    Finished side one of Kimber

    Excellent spirals.
  3. SamW

    Am I too slow?

    The higher the quality of execution the more time it takes. Your time seems OK to me. PS...it shows careful layout and quality execution.
  4. SamW

    Protects engraving metal to avoid oxidized

    There was an engraver who came to the Vegas shows several times who had the problem of acidic hands. As I remember it, there is a soap that can help with the problem but I do not remember anything else about it.
  5. SamW

    Protects engraving metal to avoid oxidized

    Just a thought...acidic oil from hands can cause a problem like yours. I engrave on a steel gun part sometimes for months without any rust problem. Even when I lived on Kodiak Island which is a very salty air location.
  6. SamW

    Announcement: RIP Winston Churchill

    I am saddened to hear that news Sam! May he rest in peace.
  7. SamW

    How do I find an expert to study under?

    Actually you just wish it was monthly same as me!
  8. SamW

    How do I find an expert to study under?

    A small correction for John B. The Engraver is a quarterly publication, not a monthly one. Wish it was monthly but it is a huge amount of work for the editor as is!
  9. SamW

    Learning to cut

    That is steep for soft metal which I seldom cut. I do use 45 degrees on aluminum which I have used for guitar/uke inlays and some car parts. The vast majority of my cutting is on gun steel.
  10. SamW

    Learning to cut

    Make that .0394. Shouldn't make much difference but you might want to test it out.
  11. SamW

    Learning to cut

    I use a 90 degree carbide tool for all my scroll cutting and most everything else. My depth of cut for most work is in the range of .003 to .005" with sculpted work going to maybe .015". It all depends on the design needs...something you will develop with experience. I use a face angle of 57...
  12. SamW

    Peekaboo...

    I am watching you...
  13. SamW

    Raised gold inlay

    Whatever works for you. I tape a piece of clear acetate over the area then scribe in some scroll intersections for indexing then scribe in the outline of the animals. This way I can see the excess gold and everything else very easily.
  14. SamW

    Raised gold inlay

    I suggest you try both methods and see which works best for you.
  15. SamW

    Raised gold inlay

    The transfer I use to originally locate an animal does not have indexing to use again for the gold. I doubt that by the time I redraw, cut and add teeth that the outline would be accurate enough so I make a new indexed overlay.
  16. SamW

    Raised gold inlay

    At this stage I make an acetate overlay indexed on the scroll pattern and then outline the animals so that when the gold is set I can find the outline of the animal and know where to trim the gold.
  17. SamW

    Pendant, Practice gold inlay

    Very nice indeed! Lucky sister.
  18. SamW

    Motifs & animals- shouldn’t they face forward?

    Ditto Marty's comments. I always try to get the action facing towards the muzzle. Also as Marty says, there are occasional exceptions but I always try to keep the action forward.
  19. SamW

    French grey techniques

    I use a flat toothpick to put a small dab of wax (unheated) on some wax paper then dip the end of the toothpick into the lampblack. Then stir the lampblack into the wax and use. It does not take much lampblack to make the wax black. This will darken cuts and heko bring out detail without...
  20. SamW

    French grey techniques

    I have had great success with the Renaissance wax and lamp black. I use the lamp black because it does not add anything but the fine lamp black. Then I put a few clear coats of wax over the tinted coats.

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