The cotton/plastic cup with graverlube for most engraving and anti-seize lube (use what works for you) for aluminum is how I work. The plastic cup saves graver points.
Here are the two brands I have on hand,,,much the same product. I have found that with the lube, I have been able to produce engraving on aluminum just as detailed as on steel.
Might be spelled wrong but...Never-Seez is what I have used for many years. Found at hardware stores and auto parts. There are other brands that are likely as good.
When cutting aluminum you really need to use a good anti-seize lube to get good clean cuts. Aluminum galls very easily so sticks to the face of the tool and I wipe the tool frequently on some hard wood to keep it clean. Otherwise the tool will tend to wander.
Correct. One of the reasons I round off the front edge of the chesil is to keep the tool from digging into the metal as I slide it across the inlay area.
Your angle looks OK. Frank Hendricks always said about 70 degrees. Your chisel looks OK...for a start...at that stage I hand massage the belly and sharp edge of the chesil into a slightly rounded shape across the face of the chesil.. The idea is when I cut teeth by moving the chesil sideways...
I have never believed in "cold welding". It is the teeth and undercuts that make the gold stick. One problem that does not get enough attention in comments is how solidly your base metal is mounted. If there is ANY bounce or vibration you will have a hard time getting the gold to stick. I...