I normally use wire for inlaying animals. I use .016" pure gold and it leaves about .008" above the surface of the steel. I cut the outline of the animal ( or other objects) into the steel, and then sculpt the basic shape into the steel prior to cutting the teeth and undercutting the outline...
Allen, no, that s not needed. I just put a small dab of wax on some wax paper and then stir in a small amount of lamp black with a toothpick and smear it in place with a finger tip. I never had the problem JJ mentions.
I usually mask off the area I wish to grey and remove the blue with naval jelly. A few applications of the jelly helps really get the metal looking right. I don't protect the cuts with wax. Instead, I apply Renaissance wax with some lamp black added to blacken the cuts after blue removal. A...
Copper takes a good first hit to set. One thing I do is make/use a flat bit of steel large enough to cover the inlay sheet so I can "hit" the whole area the first whack. I have not done a copper inlay the size you are attempting.
John B mentioned bounce and that will be a real problem if any exists. It keeps the inlay from setting into the undercuts/teeth. So if you have a problem setting the copper check bounce first. I have had on occasion had to place a block of hardwood or metal under the item and resting on the...
Correct T.G. I use a #10 Optivisor. I turn 81 next month so am most fortunate to still have steady hands and great eyesight.
Mark, learning is what it is all about. Makes us keep coming back for more. Onward and upward!
I assume you are trying to avoid scale formation? There are powders available to coat the parts to stop that problem. I have been using Brownells PCB powder. You heat the part(s) to 500 degrees and emerse into the powder which forms a crust on the metal. After annealing and cooling you rinse...