i never met him face-to-face. no matter-- he and i had quite a few chats over the phone. almost as if i knew him all my life. a true artist, teacher, and all around great gentleman
i once sent him a bottle of transfer solution i made up. you'd thought i sent him a bar of gold !
THE METHOD OF choice depends on the effect you seek. stippling with them would go much faster with air assist. would also look much better. beads placed carefully will almost require hammering one-at-a-time.
for me, the obvious is the very last thing i try. it's something in the water i think.
btw: after drawing, check them with a mirror. sometimes a bad spot will show more easily that way.
the shading is done to create highlights, shadow, and to create the illusion of depth where none exists. check the work of didyoung. he's a master at this. don't try to copy his work, rather practice shading the way he does it. using a pencil †o ceate shading is a good way to appreciate the...
whatever approach you take, it becomes much easier if you have a binocular zoom scope. it was always easier for me to magnify, then use very small cutters made from dental drills. i would facet them as if they were full size gravers. just use less pressure while cutting away such small areas. if...
try using some teflon or other specie of plastic on the ball bottom. you may well find the ball a good deal easier to orient during cutting. other mtls such as leather or paper can alter the drag to just where you like it. cheap fix if it worx. for me, it was always important to have just the...
gravers of recent manufacture have no need to be heat treated. they are as tough as they will ever be. some of the old gravers, such as found on the bay, can be heat treated to improve their durability. the reason-- the jewelers of old worked mainly on gold, silver, copper, and pewter. those...
i did alot of custom blade work. most was pretty tough even when annealed. you doing h&c, or air assist ? not knowing what sort of vise and tools you have, it's tricky to give advice. i will say that a steeper face angle woulld be desirable, depending on how tough the steel is. the steeper angle...
michaels craft outlets sell them certainly on the bay. most of us do not use lettering trmplates. best to learn to draw and design by hand. oft times, a template just wont fit a given size requirement for doing text
don't need one. i use the wheel wet. by controlling the disk rpm and the amount of mineral oil applied, the mess remains on the disk. now & then a spritz of wd40 & a tooth brush ( over a trash can )and the disk is good to go.