I have used both types on almost everything. The only difference I could determine was if you go too deep with the conventional or #1 type you cannot come out of the cut. When using the number 2 type or parrallel heel it doesn't matter how deep you go. The graver won't dive on you. But the extra...
I am not a big believer in templates. They are OK for beginners I guess but A person is much better off to get a quick change duel angle sharpening fixture from GRS to begin with. As you progress you will end up spending a lot more money for templates for the many different geometries you will...
from my experience you cannot make a graver with a included angle of over 80° or it won't stay in the metal. In other words the geometry should be 30° heel and a 50° face angle. 30 + 50 = 80.
If you went to a 50 degree heel you will need a 30° face. I never tried a graver with a heel over 30°...
Robert Evans uses Acid for background removal all the time BUT I notice the background is very shallow on his. I tried acid method but had problems with undercutting the design when going deeper than about .007. I never figured out how to solve that. The only sure way I know to do this is to...
I have worked with all of those steels quite a few times. They all engrave easily if annealed correctly. The problem is many people don't know how to anneal them correctly.
When cutting scrolls you need to make some sort of a centering pointer or index so you can place your work on center of rotation.
Always keep your work area on center of rotation and focused.
After the square graver cuts you need to cut the tops off with a flat graver. Then treat the background by stippling, dot punching. hammering or some other technique.
I am not only amazed at the quality of your work but I just don't understand how you can produce this stuff so fast. If I could do that it would take me a year or more for one gun. Truely amazing to say the least.
I understand Phil. I will get one sooner or later. Your work is beyond great. I collect photos of your work and study them. I hope to be able to do portraits like yours some day. That work on the nile gun is something I don't think I will ever be able to equal. However it is a lot of fun...
I read an vertical once about the japanese fusing gold to steel by heating the steel to 500° F and then aplying the annealed and cleaned gold to it while hot. I never could justify trying it because I figured it was easier to just use the tooth method rather than putting up with the heat.
I use Cerrosafe for turning thin barrels. The barrels tend to flex in between centers on the lathe. Filling them with cerrosafe will stiffen them up and help prevent this. It is also good for backing thin metal when engraving, The silver on these patchbox covers is only .032 thick. They were...