I've done a LOT of checkering and while I can't tell much from that photo (really need a tight closeup), my first thought is your line spacing is way too fine. It looks like >80lpi, when you'd be better off with <60lpi.
Also, you're using a very elongated diamond, which is usually better...
The scrollwork is definitely hand engraved and so is the zigzag border around the top. The guilloche turning under the blue enamel was probably machined. I can't even guess about the age- that style of engraving has been around for over a hundred years.
Interesting. I always found the blasted surface so fragile, prone to scuffing or burnishing with a hard stare, that it was the very last thing I did before the black paint. I can't imagine getting the shade lines cut without marking it up with stray chips, especially with a work-hardened curl...
I'd contact New Hermes and see if they can help you. They've been the big dog in pantographs for decades, so even if this isn't one of their machines they probably have parts that could be adapted to it.
So you're saying it's not flat, it's got a domed curvature, too??? Oh, excuse me, now that I know what I'm supposed to be seeing, it's not a convex dome, it's a concave dish. The curvature is very subtle and not immediately obvious in the photos unless one is looking for it. Do you have any...
Spectacular, Damien! Would you mind telling us about the order of work, in particular, the pros & cons of completing the engraving almost 100% before sawing out the piercing?
...and needs another place to put it. The Purdey gun safe.
https://www.purdey.com/purdey-gun-safe?sc_src=email_604919&sc_lid=57054079&sc_uid=iYuZNZLv0Y&sc_llid=10956&sc_eh=77f9a9f9b444fae01&&utm_source=email&utm_medium=emarsys&utm_campaign=Gun+Safe+%2827.05%29
Hi Paul- I tried to take a look at your website but neither Chrome nor Safari seems to work. The former gives an 'update browser' window and the latter can't find it at all? And no, I don't have any trouble just surfing in general...
It certainly looks like a signature of some sort, but it certainly was done in an odd place if that's what it is. Why wouldn't a signature be a bit lower and to the right, in the relatively smooth area?
interesting. i wonder if the Cronite Co. has any further info, or knows of any collectors or artists who keep an eye out for these old machines? i have heard that letterpress and other types of traditional printing are enjoying a resurgence, so maybe an artisan printers group would be...
the 'negative', white-on-black transfer trick really comes in handy for restoration work. before ANY polishing on a rusted/pitted engraved or stamped part, give it a good scrubbing with a brass brush and your rust remover of choice. clean it well, then take a smokeprint, lifting the impression...
my Canon's default setting is for a higher speed when copying, so if i need better resolution i have to reset that, along with bumping up 'density' and 'sharpness'.
While we're being helpful this morning, here's another transfer tip: For some applications, it's better to use a "negative" for a transfer. In other words, a solid black background with white lines. You can engrave the lines without destroying the pattern or making a mess of flaking toner...
"3. Lets get back to the BS about the seize and destroy.. Suitcases full of products. Yeah, didn't happen."
I'm pretty sure "Goldjockey" was just describing his own experience dealing with infringers in a completely different business and industry...
i must be the only engraver on the planet with just one chasing hammer, but it is a Friedrich Dick with the coveted, long out of production, 7/8" face. i made the replacement handle and would not recommend using beech for that. it's been re-wedged about six times...