Too small, in my opinion Byrn.
Looks "added on", instead of part of the original design.
Not everywhere does it have to be full scrolls.
But keep the elements, leaves and background spaces approximately the same size as the existing engraving.
Some things could be just leaves and buds emanating...
Hello Byrn, make a drawing or ink impression from what you now have on your knife'
Then draw in some smaller scroll or elements originating from the pins or the line borders at each end of your knife.
Try to design it so that the background removal areas stays balanced on the whole design.
Keep...
To me it looks like something done quickly, without much time being spent to fully develop a design.
If a contract job, it looks like a lot of engraving coverage was requested at a low price.
I believe it was either hand drawn or just cut on the "fly." No transfers made and used in laying it...
Some wonderful flair cutting in steel and some outstanding decorative borders and shading.
Love your twisted ribbon border and the shading, you hit it out of the park.
Much better photos, thank you. Some errors in design and cutting.
In some places there are large scrolls emanating from small scrolls.
Also too much use of outside work to fill major areas of the design.
In many places the the size of the outside work has big leaves, much larger than the leaves...
Congratulations to publisher Andrew Biggs for yet another outstanding issue #133 of The Engraver, the FEGA journal.
And a shout out to Master Engravers Ron Smith and Wade Oliver Wilson, a new Master, for the wonderful cover photographs of their Engraving artistry.
This is a world class issue...
Thank you For opening it up Byrn.
In the first photograph, the outside work along the spine side looks overdone.
It's a drawing I believe.
It looks much better in the actual cut engravings.
Care should be taken when shading these elements to not make them too pronounced.
Hello Danny and welcome to engraving and the Cafe.
I think I read somewhere that the single speed GraverHone runs at 480 RPM.
But check this out with GRS to be sure.
As you said, the speed of the single speed hone would be what Sam based his teaching course on.
A piece of 1x2 maple wood has worked for me for many years.
Just stab the newly sharpened graver into the END GRAIN.
Or punch the wood down on the graver.
Either way works to take off any "wire edges."
That what this Cafe is about, one engraver helping another!
So sorry to hear of your problem Dave.
And thanks for reaching out to him, Monk.
Two good people helping each other.
Do a search for " Anatomy of a Graver" on this forum.
Download page #12 for a square graver and follow the instructions for a 90 degree graver.
You might want to download all the pages and keep them for your later study of graver sharpening.
But I advise you to concentrate on and make just a 90...