a very nice video of an excellent engraver. anybody just starting out with h&c should look at this video. it could answer a question or two that you may have.
welcome to the forum.
your hammer is probably too heavy. the handle or shaft should be perhaps 10" or so, and not so thick. such enables better control while cutting. remember, you're not pounding nails! your scroll are in need of correction. you want a smooth scroll, with no lumps, bumps, or...
if it was me, i'd start with a 90 degree square. and maybe a flat graver.. you're also going to need a way to hold the parts you wish to engrave. you will also need a sharpening system, or at least a quality diamond impregnated sharpening stone. something else is a requirement for quality...
i have not tried them 4 engraving, but hf has nitrile gloves that are somewhat sensitive to touch, and are fairly resistant to tearing. not sure i would want to wear them 4 a session at the bench. they make my hands sweat. ymmv
don't be a slave to just one geometry. when you like one, try different ones. the different geometries can make life a bit easier when doing a variety of m,aterials/techniques.
the lindsay operates on lower pressure, or cubic feet of air per minute-- cfm. the other systems use higher pressures/cfm. the 12 volt system uses interrupted pulses of air. in conjunction with a spring. the other systems is basically controlled inside the actual handpiece. i don't advise...
copper should not give one fits regardless of h&c, push, or air assist. i don't recall engraving any cast copper. not sure how the cast would be to work. if you have done well with steel, even work hardened copper should not be much of a problem. i have never experinced the "gummy" situation...
if of german manufacture, it very likely was a high quality instrument. the optics from germany were top shelf for a number of years. when i was a histological technician, i was able to us a zeiss trinoc/compound. all the optics, including the 97x were hand ground, and were capable of the...
i'd guess it's just an ordinary zoomer. with maybe a .3 reducing lens. the stand would just allow the scope to swing over the area, only to be height readjusted to suit the doc doing the work. other than the stand, i don't think there was anything special about those scopes.
ditto. it's sorta like intro 2 engraving 101 mr meeks showed all the disciplines one needed to master to become an engraver. there was enough there to show you it was possible to engrave if one really wanted to learn.
i use oxyacetylene torches, pllasma torches, stick/mig welding, and toss in a bit of blacksmithing. the injuries i get from engraving pale in comparison to the above mentioned pursuits.
i'll also add, the scale (size) of the figures in the boat would be quite difficult to do in the form of a line drawing. for that matter, it would be rather tricky to do in bulino. the smaller the figure, you'll have far less meaningful control over detail. if you look at certain oil paintings...
you didn't ask for a critique, so will refrain from such. but, you should get a copy of scroll design, layout techniques. shawn didyoung and lee griffiths both pubbed books on the subject, and are reasonably priced.