What Andrew said don't start over just add shade lines but before you start that go to your practice plate work on tapering your shade lines. Try starting the line with the graver low to your work and raise the angle and deepen the cut as you go. It will become automatic with practice. I don't...
Matty, I like it, ya still have some shading to do looks like you missed a couple places. A blown up photo is a great way to look for missed spots. I only seen yours because that is the first thing I look for on mine.
Next time work on your shade lines a bit some are very good some not so much...
Kenway, monk is right you get what you pay for. How about hammer and chisel it is cheap and if you practice you will be ahead of the game when you get a pneumatic system.
The painters tape is the only way to go. I use it with hot glue on large gun actions like 97 Winchesters and it holds them secure and only takes a wack from a rawhide mallet to release. I hold parts for polishing that way too but if you use wet sanding take it off as soon as your done. the water...
This is my opinion but 3M wet dry is the best but use the professional type. Some hardware stores sell a 3M wet dry with a yellow back stay away from that use the type with a brown back it is more durable. Again my opinion.
Leland
Rust blue works and they will color case harden the steel cuts nice. I have not tried charcoal blue but it should work just don't hot blue unless you want a purple gun.
I do make it clear to the customer that it is lip stick on a pig but it's their money.
The holy grail calipers on the cafe are the 2in Starrett. I have those and a 1 3/4 Browne and Sharp square leg I use which ever 1 is closest most of the time but for parallel lines I use the Browne and Sharp the square legs seem more ridged. I am trying mitch's trick. Chujyear was right about...
pmace, I have modified a digital caliper to scribe with and it worked but it was kind of unhandy to use. I was going to send a pic but I can't find it that's how unhandy it was. If I ever find it I'm going to cut it down to about a 2 inch leg I think it may make it more user friendly.
I agree with monk when engraving my whole world is the field of view in my scope all the crap going on in the world disappears. I look at gravers as being the cheapest part of this. Think how much money can be made with a 16 dollar graver well that and a lifetime of dedication