I`m with Monk here.
Maybe you can try to contact Roger Ronnie. He is an exellent machinist, engraver and also repairs and build old watchmaker tools Roger L. Ronnie - The Miniature Engineering Craftsmanship Museum
I`m not sure, but I don`t think he has a profile in this forum, but he have a...
I have an old Nikon smz-1b probably from the 70`s. Im happy with it, but compared to my newer Leica,..........As mention before, probably a nice paperweight :)
Jørn-Ove
Sorry, can`t help you with your oxidation problem. Maybe you can try some wax or varnish to protect the copper? For mild steel, try to ask for it at a tinsmith shop. Here in Norway I get all the mild steel I need from my local tinsmith.
Jørn-Ove
Never tried to cut it myself, but here is a link that might answer your question. I also have read that engravers have good results using lindsay m48 engravers. Carbide gravers are more brittle than these gravers.
6AL4V Titanium. | The Engraver's Cafe (engraverscafe.com)
Jørn-Ove
First of all. nice effort. I`m not an expert, but try to get a better flow next time. First, draw backbones without elbows e.t.c. Then fill in leaves. Leaves and Shadelines should follow the flow. IMHO
Keep drawing and cutting :pencil::graver:
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If I remeber correct Marius Mellebye (engraverhand) bought some of these gravers (m48) from Lindsay. Maybe he can answer your question, or you can ask the same question in Lindsay forum if no one here replies. Steve use to answer in a couple of days :)
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First, I think you have done a wonderful job and I can`t see your slips either (if you have any) :D :D
Will follow this tread because I also want to know answers to your questions, specially about annealing copper.
Blackening engraving before gold inlay is probably a good advice if there`s not...
Fantastic mitch. The honey bee has actually 4 wings, not 2.:shock::shock: Learning something new every day :D :D :D That`s why I think this forum is great !!
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