Hi T. G. If you have ever have to cut one of the slide release you would find how hard they are.
That is probably why it is lighter cut, not much shading and no background.
Thanks for the better photos Andy.
Defiantly not Angelo or Gino's work.
Sorry to say the Inlays and out of round scrolls are not near their quality of work.
But the overall layout, and general style is a copy of them.
Andy, I agree with Roger 100%. Need to see well lit close up scroll pics.
The general layout and gold linework is pretty typical of many many guns done by Anglo Bee, Gino Cargnel and a ton of American engravers in the 70s-80s and 90s and before that.
And still being done today. Nice gun, enjoy.
Like Sam, I bet Japanese engravers. Probably engraved in the US or the PX in Japan, they worked both.
A group of these Japanese engravers, trained in Germany and Austria, who came to the US in the '80s.
They did quickie, reasonably priced engraving jobs, mainly at gun shows and trap clubs...
Hi Ryan, Sinterklaas gave you some info on sharpening and polishing carbide so I won't confuse you with more.
What are you engraving that requires you to use polished carbide gravers?
As you asked, I have lived in the Los Angeles, California area for the last 70 years.
Ryan,
I'm from England since 1950. Lived on the south coast at Shorham-by Sea and in London.
You need to shape the sides of your rod if you are going to make it into an Onglette,
Look at the GRS and/or other catalogs to see the general shape of the tool.
Or any engraver in your area should be...
Gold, silver I clean with Acetone before inlay.
Copper and brass I pull through an abrasive pad or 600 paper and then acetone.
It is a good idea to wipe down all inlay materials to remove any traces of hand acid.
Two dissimilar metal in contact with any acid are a set-up for future electrolyzes.
Hi Ryan, Some of it looks OK from what I can see from you pictures.
I'm not much of a photographer myself but it would be a help if you could get better pics with some close ups.
To sharpen an Onglette is a piece of cake.
Just sharpen the face to 50 degrees.
Then, holding it in your hand with...
Basic lines are the way to start and learn.
And there is noting to hide any mistakes.
That is the way to learn. Number, date and save the plates, mistakes and all.
They will be a great demo pieces when you teach others to inlay.
And a reminder to yourself.
Hi Ryan, thank you for your answers.
First, make sure your copper wire is fully annealed and your mild steel plate is well supported in your vise so that there is no bounce. Use a backing plate if necessary.
My choice of graver for line inlay is an Onglette with a slightly rounded bottom.
Your...
Grayson,
I would advise using only .999 pure silver, fully annealed.
And I would use a wire that provides about 125% fill to your cavity.
If the line is under.025 wide, just undercut both sides.
If it's .025 or wider add some teeth in the bottom of the groove.
Seat the wire quickly with a...
Hello Ryan,
Is it a line inlay or a form? If line, how wide.
What, and what metal is the inlay going into?
What engraving system do you use, hammer and chisel or power assist.?