my 2cw. it's also quite beneficial to a neub to learn how to handle frustration. know that frustration will occur. when it does, it's not the end of the world. i'd guess 90% of the members became flustered a lot. the other 10% simply lied about it.
blood may initiate a bit of rust. to my eye, this shows far too deep to be mere "blood rust. the (design ?" if that's what it is, seems too irregular to have been done on purpose. probably accidental exposure to some very corrosive liquid. jmho
the very feature about engraving that i like--- i don't have to think about anything whilst engraving. a nice state of mind. lookin at that little line, and the world goes away.
the purpose of shading is twofold. it adds interest to the design,and more importantly, creates the illusion of depth on an otherwise flat surface. the landlord here, sam alfano, has excellent video work showing this. it's worth looking into !
i don't think this violates forum rules. since you are seeking feedback about our particular problems. just be mindful, if you actually wish to sell here, you'll have to post that in the classified section of the forum. to post there, a nominal fee is required to do such.
there's much, much more that can be embellished than is shown here on the forum look for a makket, then fill that need. no market ?? simple as pie, just start yer own. probably the strangest request i ever had was from a radio show in desmoines, iowa. i engraved the station logo and a talk show...
tyvm for that answer. i've done a bit of stonework, including a few tombstones. but nothing on a scale like what you do. quite honestly, i'm too lazy to even think about something of that size.
i have a non answer: you wont likely live long enough to significantly reduce a graver to a too-short length. i assume that you're starting with a full length graver. even using the newer short blanks, you're actually be removing very little from the overall graver length. the majority of metal...
wow ! an interesting batch of info. i made one some time ago from a dc tape transfer motor. it gives very acceptable performance. way, way less than yours cost. you mentioned flexion on deep downward pressure. i'm not sure one needs that much down pressure. unless you're sharpening jackhammer...
no printers' ink ? flat black rustoleum will do the trick. same procedure as john b. mentioned. i've put quite a few rounds thru a .455. not too good for bustin beer & pop cans. after a couple shots, you almost want to take up bowling.
welcome. i'll be ostrasized for this: a cheap scope is better than no scope. if you concentrate more on drawing, you may save enough cash to get a good scope. if you get married, you'll lose 75% of the space that you think is yours. a pantograph (if that's the type you made), is good for repeat...
in my reply, i mentioned wax. i forgot to add talcom powder. i don't recall using plasticine for that purpose. the transfer wax is easy to work with, no runs, drips, or errors.
whethher or not it would help is something only you can answer. i'd first try to make one. if it helps you, great. on the other hand, you may find it a hindrance. even if you hang from the ceiling, you must work in comfort. neck, back, and shoulder pain is a real hindrance to practice.