For engraving that sees lots of outdoor exposure I have used several products with limited success. Everything from waxes to build up finishes of lacquer and other clear coat finishes. I have recently tried and think to date this is the best of the lot for appearance, protection and...
Sam and John,
Being able to plan/think ahead for eliminating possible problems is the reason for work flow sequences. Thanks for your experiences so that I may learn without having to experience the "hard knocks" learning curve.
What is the work sequence from beginning to finished project? Assuming that the project is properly polished and the design phase has been completed. The design transferred to the work piece. The project contains various operations: metal inlay, scroll, relief, shading/detailing, bulino...
Thank you for sharing. There is nothing we can do that is more important than to help to pave the road for our young people. I wish you the very best with this endeavor.
I agree with you about the electric tooth brush. Chujy's idea is a winner. My mind went crazy dreaming up attachements I could make for various operations in my gunwork.
I have on the bench a Browning Superposed Diana grade (French Greyed Receiver, forend iron) 1974 vintage. The engraving is sharp but the background is dark with crud and has some light air rust discoloration. No noticeable pitting. I would like to clean and restore the original engraving and...
My 2 cents - All of the above is right on and should be taken to heart! If by "cold" blue you mean the traditional rust bluing. SS will not rust! Therefore it can not be blued by this mean and/or this mean can not be used for the "French Greying" process. If cold blue means the coloring of...
If I have understood your concerns you were in a state of transition from an old address to a new address. An FFL is for a particular physicals place and is not valid for doing firearms business at any other location. Even if your license was not up for renewal you would have had to get a new...
Yes, you must in some manner off-set the rods. I fined that by chucking it in a QC holder of the size of rod and tightening the screw off-set it a little and in some cases enough but using a holder of the next size(1/16 rod in a 3/32 qc) also works. I have also used a very thin shim on one jaw...
I am sure many have thought and do this but have not seen it posted. I use either HSS(cobalt) or Carbide rounds of 1/16, 3/32 and 1/8 " for stipple points. I chuck them in a battery run drill grind a relief angle of "approx"(eyeball!) 5-10 degrees then a point of "approx" 45-60 degrees. I set...
Thank you both this is exactly the instruction I was needing. I had not looked closely at a sample of drop shadowing to determine the process. Just as you pictured T.G.III. I can clearly see it in your example.
In creating drop shadows relative to lettering. Some are simple single cut lines others are larger. My question is with the larger. Are they made by cutting several lines, stippled, recessed stippled/textured to give the appearance of a shadow. I am assuming the use of a darkening agent such...
Just to catch folks on the saga. Rex is the man! Rex figured out the location of the problem. AT is now up to speed and working like it was designed to work. Thanks Rex!